La Patagonie, c'est magnifique, tout simplement.
On a fait un tour organisé avec Camino Abierto. Notre groupe etait bien sympa, avec des Suisses, Italiens, Anglais, Americains et Francais. Les guides etaient Argentin et Chileen.
On en a eu plein la vue dès le premier jour. Le temps etait superbe, on a eu beaucoup de chance.
En suivant les photos, vous allez voir le Fitz Roy, le Glacier Perito Moreno, Torres del Paine, la Pampa, la Terre de Feu ou on a fini a Ushuaia.
On a mange un agneau cuit au feu de bois dans une Estancia. Le meilleur agneau!!!
Ah, et puis, dans l'estancia, j'ai failli etre embauché. Il y a une petite video de moi ou je trie les moutons. Il s'agissait de mettre les moutons a tondre dans un enclos et les autres sans laine, dans un autre enclos. Ca a l'air facile comme ca, mais je me suis fait rapidement deborder...
Le soir, j'ai amusé la gallerie avec le jeu des loups-garous. Un des Italiens parlait comme Roberto Benigni, on a rrrit....
Sinon, j'ai bien progressé en Espagnol Argentin. La regle d'or est que les "lleu" deviennent des "cheu", du coup on dit "¿Como te chamas?" ou "me gusta el pocho" ou encore "Cho no se donde estan mis chaves!" ;)
Ah! et puis, on a gouté un nouveau truc, le Mate. C'est une herbe sechée dans une sorte de tasse avec de l'eau chaude que l'on boit par une paille metallique. Et on le passe d'une personne a l'autre comme un joint, mais c'est legal!
Bon voila, on s'est bien regale en Patagonie. On realise la chance que l'on a.
Saturday, January 31, 2009
Tuesday, January 27, 2009
Chile...de nuevo
January 26, 2009
We arrived in Punta Arenas, a small town in Chile (a mandatory stop over) for one night only. It happened to be Sunday and the town could quiet litrally have been a ghost town. We were starting to wonder if we could find dinner. After a mate (Argetine tea) in the hotel, we wandered out again and found a cute seafood restauraunt where we shared fresh fish plates for under $20.
January 27, 2009
Early morning flight, crankiness and then a 3 hour bus ride. But we did not go too hungry, thanks to the nice lady at the hotel who fixed us a bag lunch to go.
We arrived to the small town of Valdivia in the south of Chile around 2pm. We found a cheap place to stay and then grabbed food at the supermarket to have a picnic by the river. Valdivia is located in the beautiful lakes district of southern Chile, an area we plan to explore for the next 5 days.
Here is an image of the town....
http://photos.igougo.com/images/p307009-Valdivia-Another_Harbor_Shot.jpg
Here is a map of the area we are in:
http://www.geocities.com/mapachile/sur.gif
The town is small, perfect for relaxing in green parks, slow boat rides and great (cheap) dinners. We plan to hang out until tomorrow and then head north 3 hours to Pucon, to visit a friend I met there during my travels in 2003.
_____________________
Things already lost in the trip:
Alejandra's towel
Greg's treasure box
Greg's favorite pants are starting to rip on the behind. He has succeed in keeping them alive using duct tape. Let's hope it holds.
We arrived in Punta Arenas, a small town in Chile (a mandatory stop over) for one night only. It happened to be Sunday and the town could quiet litrally have been a ghost town. We were starting to wonder if we could find dinner. After a mate (Argetine tea) in the hotel, we wandered out again and found a cute seafood restauraunt where we shared fresh fish plates for under $20.
January 27, 2009
Early morning flight, crankiness and then a 3 hour bus ride. But we did not go too hungry, thanks to the nice lady at the hotel who fixed us a bag lunch to go.
We arrived to the small town of Valdivia in the south of Chile around 2pm. We found a cheap place to stay and then grabbed food at the supermarket to have a picnic by the river. Valdivia is located in the beautiful lakes district of southern Chile, an area we plan to explore for the next 5 days.
Here is an image of the town....
http://photos.igougo.com/images/p307009-Valdivia-Another_Harbor_Shot.jpg
Here is a map of the area we are in:
http://www.geocities.com/mapachile/sur.gif
The town is small, perfect for relaxing in green parks, slow boat rides and great (cheap) dinners. We plan to hang out until tomorrow and then head north 3 hours to Pucon, to visit a friend I met there during my travels in 2003.
_____________________
Things already lost in the trip:
Alejandra's towel
Greg's treasure box
Greg's favorite pants are starting to rip on the behind. He has succeed in keeping them alive using duct tape. Let's hope it holds.
Penguins! Pinguinos!
January 25, 2009
Though the trip ended last night, Greg and I still wanted (and had the time) to see penguins. The tour took us down la Ruta J, from where we got on a boat at the Haverton Estancia to an island 15 minutes off the shore.
There was a colony, protected by a group of scientists, of Magallenes and Gentoo Penguins. The Magallanes penguins are the smaller ones, while the Gentoo are larger and have disctint orange colloring on thier beaks and feet.
We happened to be visiting just after the eggs hatched and we were able to see both the babies and the nests.
Did you know?
- Penguins, for the mostpart, are monagomous and mate with the same partner each year- unless something tragic happens the year before, such as a egg being eaten by a predator, a chick dying after birth, famine, ect. In this case the female will choose a different nest. Tunrs out the males build the nests and the females come each year to find them by smell.
- 2 eggs are produced by 1 female. One chick is usually testes for stregnth (survival of the fitess) and if there is shortage of food, the stronger chick is always cared for first.
- Penguins only spend time on land when mating and raising babies. The babies do not develop feathers capable of keeping the cold antartic water out until 3 months later.
- CHicks born the year before come back to the colony not to mate, only to loose and grow new feathers.
- Penguins are the fastest in water, and can dive up to 100 meters
- We were able to get so close to them because they can´t see well on land!
Though the trip ended last night, Greg and I still wanted (and had the time) to see penguins. The tour took us down la Ruta J, from where we got on a boat at the Haverton Estancia to an island 15 minutes off the shore.
There was a colony, protected by a group of scientists, of Magallenes and Gentoo Penguins. The Magallanes penguins are the smaller ones, while the Gentoo are larger and have disctint orange colloring on thier beaks and feet.
We happened to be visiting just after the eggs hatched and we were able to see both the babies and the nests.
Did you know?
- Penguins, for the mostpart, are monagomous and mate with the same partner each year- unless something tragic happens the year before, such as a egg being eaten by a predator, a chick dying after birth, famine, ect. In this case the female will choose a different nest. Tunrs out the males build the nests and the females come each year to find them by smell.
- 2 eggs are produced by 1 female. One chick is usually testes for stregnth (survival of the fitess) and if there is shortage of food, the stronger chick is always cared for first.
- Penguins only spend time on land when mating and raising babies. The babies do not develop feathers capable of keeping the cold antartic water out until 3 months later.
- CHicks born the year before come back to the colony not to mate, only to loose and grow new feathers.
- Penguins are the fastest in water, and can dive up to 100 meters
- We were able to get so close to them because they can´t see well on land!
End of the world, end of the adventure
January 24, 2009
Greg and I ended our 15 day trek through Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego in Ushuaia, Argentina. Ushuaia is the last city on the American continent and the port where all ships leave for Antartica. One must posses at least $5K (US dollar) to make the trip down to Antartica, Greg and I decided to save that one until we are old and rich.
After 15 days of being herded around, fed and organized we were a little nervous to be set free and be on our own for planning. But the adventure awaits and it will be nice to have some quiet time.
We spend 2 more days in Ushuaia, with plans to see penguins, eat lots of Argentine meat and have at least one afternoon nap.
Greg and I ended our 15 day trek through Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego in Ushuaia, Argentina. Ushuaia is the last city on the American continent and the port where all ships leave for Antartica. One must posses at least $5K (US dollar) to make the trip down to Antartica, Greg and I decided to save that one until we are old and rich.
After 15 days of being herded around, fed and organized we were a little nervous to be set free and be on our own for planning. But the adventure awaits and it will be nice to have some quiet time.
We spend 2 more days in Ushuaia, with plans to see penguins, eat lots of Argentine meat and have at least one afternoon nap.
Extreme Patagonia Adventure
Janiary 9 to January 24, 2009
Day 1&2 - Calafate, Argentine
Bus ride to Parque National de los Glaciers and hike to camp site at the base if Fitz Roy. Excellent views! We were also blessed with exceptional weather and had clear skies and warm breezes. Not the cold uninviting Patagonia weather we had expected.
Day 3 - Hike to Lago de los Tres and Fitz Roy viewpoint
Excellent hike, steep climb but rewarding finish. Check out the pics, the viewpoint is at the base of the famous mountain climbing peaks that tower above 2 brilliant blue glacier water lagoons. We were able to spend at least 1 hour at the view point, taking in sun and a packed lunch.
Day 4 - 5 am wake up call
Greg and I dragged ourselves out of our tent with Ale and Rocco to check out the full moon and sunrise. It was magnificent! I am so thankful for the time to be able to watch the sunrise, bathe in the light of the moon and share it all with Greg.
After breakfast we took off on a relaxing hike, across marshes and thick forests, to our next campsite. After game of wherewolf and some mate we wandering on a few more walks and then came back for dinner....lentils.
Day 5 - Glacier Hike and hike back to town of Chalten
9 am start, I am still half asleep when I find myself hooked to a line and before I can comprehend, I am flying acorss a river.
It took about an hour to cmilb up and over what looked like should have taken 15 minutes to get to. As we got closer to the Great Glacier, it began to take true form, in both color and size. At the edge, we stapped 10 metal spikes to each foot and began walking.
I had assumed we would be walking on a flat piece of blue ise, but the glacier is in fat full of peaks and crevises, making it obvious why we needed spikes on our feet.
Walking on brilliant blue glass, stepping over crack, sinkholes and ridges.....not an everyday hike. We arrived to a large hole in the ice that sloped down to a river runniung through and under the glacier. It was here the guides stopped to set up a rappel down. The guides ecured the hook and we lowered ourselves down 1 by 1 into the crevice where we ate lunch and practiced our ice climbing.
The walk back was long and tiring as we walked from sun to rain to snow to wind. Back up and over the mountainside, over the rushing river and into camp. No rest here, as we stll had a 3 hour walk ahead of us back into town where we were due for a shower and dinner.
It was the best night of sleep I had had in the trip thusfar (despite the cold shower).
Day 6 - Back to El Calafate
Day 7 - Perito Moreno Glacier
Day 8 - Torres del Paine, hike to Mirador de los Condores
Day 9 - Hike to Mirador de las Torres
Day 10 - Lago Pehoe boat ride to French Valley, Torres del Paine, Chile
Hike to Italian Camp (where I fell in a river) Rain, cold and wind....la miseria!
Day 11 - Hike to Grey Glacier and bus to Puerto Natales
Day 12 - Puerto Natales to Estancia de Las Mujeres. Beautiful sheep ranch where we were treated to the best lamb roast EVER.
Day 13 - Estancia de las Hijas. Sheep Shearing Show! Then bus down to Tierra del Fuego, where we crossed the Straights of Magellenes. We arrived to a Mountain Refuge in time for lunch and an afternoon hike. Later that night we went hunting for beavers!
Day 14 - Bus to Ushuaia. Hike in National Park and afternoon boat ride in the famous Beagle Channel.
Day 15 - Penguins!
Day 1&2 - Calafate, Argentine
Bus ride to Parque National de los Glaciers and hike to camp site at the base if Fitz Roy. Excellent views! We were also blessed with exceptional weather and had clear skies and warm breezes. Not the cold uninviting Patagonia weather we had expected.
Day 3 - Hike to Lago de los Tres and Fitz Roy viewpoint
Excellent hike, steep climb but rewarding finish. Check out the pics, the viewpoint is at the base of the famous mountain climbing peaks that tower above 2 brilliant blue glacier water lagoons. We were able to spend at least 1 hour at the view point, taking in sun and a packed lunch.
Day 4 - 5 am wake up call
Greg and I dragged ourselves out of our tent with Ale and Rocco to check out the full moon and sunrise. It was magnificent! I am so thankful for the time to be able to watch the sunrise, bathe in the light of the moon and share it all with Greg.
After breakfast we took off on a relaxing hike, across marshes and thick forests, to our next campsite. After game of wherewolf and some mate we wandering on a few more walks and then came back for dinner....lentils.
Day 5 - Glacier Hike and hike back to town of Chalten
9 am start, I am still half asleep when I find myself hooked to a line and before I can comprehend, I am flying acorss a river.
It took about an hour to cmilb up and over what looked like should have taken 15 minutes to get to. As we got closer to the Great Glacier, it began to take true form, in both color and size. At the edge, we stapped 10 metal spikes to each foot and began walking.
I had assumed we would be walking on a flat piece of blue ise, but the glacier is in fat full of peaks and crevises, making it obvious why we needed spikes on our feet.
Walking on brilliant blue glass, stepping over crack, sinkholes and ridges.....not an everyday hike. We arrived to a large hole in the ice that sloped down to a river runniung through and under the glacier. It was here the guides stopped to set up a rappel down. The guides ecured the hook and we lowered ourselves down 1 by 1 into the crevice where we ate lunch and practiced our ice climbing.
The walk back was long and tiring as we walked from sun to rain to snow to wind. Back up and over the mountainside, over the rushing river and into camp. No rest here, as we stll had a 3 hour walk ahead of us back into town where we were due for a shower and dinner.
It was the best night of sleep I had had in the trip thusfar (despite the cold shower).
Day 6 - Back to El Calafate
Day 7 - Perito Moreno Glacier
Day 8 - Torres del Paine, hike to Mirador de los Condores
Day 9 - Hike to Mirador de las Torres
Day 10 - Lago Pehoe boat ride to French Valley, Torres del Paine, Chile
Hike to Italian Camp (where I fell in a river) Rain, cold and wind....la miseria!
Day 11 - Hike to Grey Glacier and bus to Puerto Natales
Day 12 - Puerto Natales to Estancia de Las Mujeres. Beautiful sheep ranch where we were treated to the best lamb roast EVER.
Day 13 - Estancia de las Hijas. Sheep Shearing Show! Then bus down to Tierra del Fuego, where we crossed the Straights of Magellenes. We arrived to a Mountain Refuge in time for lunch and an afternoon hike. Later that night we went hunting for beavers!
Day 14 - Bus to Ushuaia. Hike in National Park and afternoon boat ride in the famous Beagle Channel.
Day 15 - Penguins!
Saturday, January 10, 2009
Tango in Buenos Aires
After asking around, we found a sort of underground tango club in Buenos Aires, called La Viruta. We arrived just in time to see a quick show of amazing dancers. After the show they broke up the crowd and held lessons, beginners, int and advanced. Greg and I were getting ready to dance without a class, we were intently watching thinking we could figure it out somehow. Thank god for the class.
Although all the amazing argentine dancers were getting pissed off as we stepped, pushed and tripped over them, we thought we were exceptional tango dancers (exactamente, we think very highly of each other) In the end we left smiling and sweating, very pleased to have experienced and learned tango, al estilo argentino.
We loved Buenos Aires, even though I had been there a few times before, it was wonderful to experience it with my love. The city has changed so much, when I was last there during the financial crisis there was a much diferent feel. Now it seems the country is out spending money and we didn´t see one manifestation.....
Greg and I are in El Calafate, ready to head off on our trek tomorrow am. We are well rested (and fed) and happy to be getting out of the city and the heat. Last night we roomed with an actor from France and a finance guy from London, tonight we hope to have new roomates that do not snore.
all my love,
Alejandra
Although all the amazing argentine dancers were getting pissed off as we stepped, pushed and tripped over them, we thought we were exceptional tango dancers (exactamente, we think very highly of each other) In the end we left smiling and sweating, very pleased to have experienced and learned tango, al estilo argentino.
We loved Buenos Aires, even though I had been there a few times before, it was wonderful to experience it with my love. The city has changed so much, when I was last there during the financial crisis there was a much diferent feel. Now it seems the country is out spending money and we didn´t see one manifestation.....
Greg and I are in El Calafate, ready to head off on our trek tomorrow am. We are well rested (and fed) and happy to be getting out of the city and the heat. Last night we roomed with an actor from France and a finance guy from London, tonight we hope to have new roomates that do not snore.
all my love,
Alejandra
Wednesday, January 7, 2009
Buenos Aires
We made the 24 hour trip from SF to Argentina in on piece. Taca managed to get our backpacks to BA, however Greg was dissapointed to find his treasure box missing.... containing a knife and various personal effects. The plane was good though, a Airbus A320, take that, Boeing!
On arrival, our host, Sebastian was holding a sign for Alejandra...a first for Greg and I. La classe!
We have then spent the last few days walking and visiting the Casa Rosa, La Boca, San Telmo, Palermo and La Recoleta. Greg and I managed to have a laugh in the middle of dead people in the cementario de Recoleta.
We also ate like gourmands at a well known parillada called La Cabrera. We could not get in unless we shared a table, so we walked in with 3 European Lufthansa arline hosts. We drank 2 bottles of wine and Greg laughed at Alejandra the entire walk home.
The next night we had again the best dinner ever.....which included more meat and morcilla (blood sausage). ¡Delicioso!
Tomorrow we are off to El Tigre to check out the river and see if we can have a swim. It is over 40ºc/100ºf.
It has been wonderful so far, Greg and I are walking around with big smiles on our faces and thankful for this opportunity.
We leave to El Calafate Friday morning and will be away for 2 weeks on a trek. More to come after that!
Our pictures so far are at: http://picasaweb.google.com/navarro.ala/BuenosAires108?feat=directlink
On arrival, our host, Sebastian was holding a sign for Alejandra...a first for Greg and I. La classe!
We have then spent the last few days walking and visiting the Casa Rosa, La Boca, San Telmo, Palermo and La Recoleta. Greg and I managed to have a laugh in the middle of dead people in the cementario de Recoleta.
We also ate like gourmands at a well known parillada called La Cabrera. We could not get in unless we shared a table, so we walked in with 3 European Lufthansa arline hosts. We drank 2 bottles of wine and Greg laughed at Alejandra the entire walk home.
The next night we had again the best dinner ever.....which included more meat and morcilla (blood sausage). ¡Delicioso!
Tomorrow we are off to El Tigre to check out the river and see if we can have a swim. It is over 40ºc/100ºf.
It has been wonderful so far, Greg and I are walking around with big smiles on our faces and thankful for this opportunity.
We leave to El Calafate Friday morning and will be away for 2 weeks on a trek. More to come after that!
Our pictures so far are at: http://picasaweb.google.com/navarro.ala/BuenosAires108?feat=directlink
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