Thanks to Avianca airlines screwing up our connection, we ended up in Madrid, Espana. Since we came back in the midst of tourist season, we could not get a train to France for 3 days.
Luck has it that Greg and I have had 6 months of training for the ¨unexpected¨ and we took it like champions.
We should send a thank you note to Avianca cause we loved our visit to Madrid and even made a day trip out to beautiful Toledo. It was an amazing way to end our neverending vacation.
We are now in Barcelona, awaiting our train to France tomorrow am...with no battery left in the camera and no clean undewear...but blissfully happy being back in our comfort land of good cheese, wine and jamon serrano.
Next stop: Montpellier, France. HOME!
PS I will keep posting pics of the end of the trip- sometime next week.
PPS Hope to catch up with everyone at the wedding!
Saturday, July 4, 2009
Cartagena....
Romantic, relaxing and hot!
Last stop in our trip.....made the best of the last few days of our trip visiting museums, beaches and amazing restos.
Pics to come....
Last stop in our trip.....made the best of the last few days of our trip visiting museums, beaches and amazing restos.
Pics to come....
Sunday, June 28, 2009
Finding Island Mucura
Other travelers we met spoke of Isla Mucura as paradise on earth. Lobsters come out of the locals ears, the beaches are filled with soft white sand, water in colors of blue you could never imagine. And there are no tourists.
After a 6 hour bus ride (we missed our stop) and one night in a random village, we arrived to the island looking for Wilbert.
Wilbert and Lina put us up in a basic hut riding high on stilts next to the sea. We stayed 3 days in quiet paradise, enjoying the small isolated beach, snorkeling and eating fresh fish. The sounds of the sea lulled us to sleep at night.
It was a perfect place to enjoy the warm carribean waters and relax.
After a 6 hour bus ride (we missed our stop) and one night in a random village, we arrived to the island looking for Wilbert.
Wilbert and Lina put us up in a basic hut riding high on stilts next to the sea. We stayed 3 days in quiet paradise, enjoying the small isolated beach, snorkeling and eating fresh fish. The sounds of the sea lulled us to sleep at night.
It was a perfect place to enjoy the warm carribean waters and relax.
Taganga Loving
Taganga was by far our favorite spot in Colombia, mainly for all the things there is to do there (I joke). We dived every morning for 6 days, had lunch and passed the afternoons at the beach. Such a busy day. We were in fact so busy that we stayed 12 days.
We wandered Taganga on our daily routines, getting to know the people in the community, eating at our favorite restauraunts and drinking a minimum of 1 fresh fruit juice a day. Our airy hotel room overlooked the village and the football field that was it´s pumping heart.
Our diving expereince was exceptional. We chose a small dive shop called Vida Marina to do both our open water and advanced Padi certifications. The dive masters were professional and all but 1 is a marine biologist. Our instructors made us feel safe, comfortable and made sure we had fun in the water. By the end of 6 days we had done 12 dives, including a dive at 110 feet, a shipwreck dive and a night dive.
We loved Taganga. The laid back vibe and sense of community we felt there was relaxing. We made new friends, had a couple good parties, a few filet mignons and left fat, well rested and happy.
Taganga is:
The stillness of the bay, with the sun shining down showing off it´s brilliant blues.
The soft sway of fishing boats at the edges of lapping waters.
Sounds of Colombian music mixed with the sweet smell of salt.
Finally, we forced ourselves to move on and spent 2 days in the Parque National Tayrona, this time on the beaches. Diving, we had already been exploring the reefs of the national park. In the park we slept in hammocks and swam in blue waters.
Now it was time to head south.
We wandered Taganga on our daily routines, getting to know the people in the community, eating at our favorite restauraunts and drinking a minimum of 1 fresh fruit juice a day. Our airy hotel room overlooked the village and the football field that was it´s pumping heart.
Our diving expereince was exceptional. We chose a small dive shop called Vida Marina to do both our open water and advanced Padi certifications. The dive masters were professional and all but 1 is a marine biologist. Our instructors made us feel safe, comfortable and made sure we had fun in the water. By the end of 6 days we had done 12 dives, including a dive at 110 feet, a shipwreck dive and a night dive.
We loved Taganga. The laid back vibe and sense of community we felt there was relaxing. We made new friends, had a couple good parties, a few filet mignons and left fat, well rested and happy.
Taganga is:
The stillness of the bay, with the sun shining down showing off it´s brilliant blues.
The soft sway of fishing boats at the edges of lapping waters.
Sounds of Colombian music mixed with the sweet smell of salt.
Finally, we forced ourselves to move on and spent 2 days in the Parque National Tayrona, this time on the beaches. Diving, we had already been exploring the reefs of the national park. In the park we slept in hammocks and swam in blue waters.
Now it was time to head south.
Thursday, June 11, 2009
Fishing in Taganga
We arrived to the fishing village of Taganga, 5 kilometers from Santa Marta, around 9am. Sun, sand and carribean waters!
We took off a day later with local fisherman to practice our skills learned fishing in the amazon. Turns out you dont even need a pole to catch fish. =) We just tossed in a line with some fish on the end and viola! We hooked plenty.
People in Taganga do not go hungry- there is a mountain of fish and the fisherman told us that what we caught was normal, if not on the smaller side.
People in Taganga do not go hungry- there is a mountain of fish and the fisherman told us that what we caught was normal, if not on the smaller side.After we spent the morning and most of the afternoon fishing we stopped off at a coral reef to snorkel and swim. Then we headed to the village to find someone to cook us some fish! We ate our catch with a view of the sea. We gave most of the catch to the local fisherman and kept 5 different types in the freezer for a fish party later this weekend.
12 hours in a refrigerated truck
The 12 hour bus ride from San Gil to Santa Marta took 10 years off my life.
Colombian´s are wonderful torturers and have many different methods I have not yet seen in my young adult life. Like putting the air conditioning on max when it is around 95F outside. Or having a transistor radio blasting for 12 hours, kinda like being in a tour bus but without all the useful tidbits of information. I will not forget the torture of going 80 kilometers and hour around curvy roads with the driver taking into deep consideration that once you are in a comfortable position he simply could not let you stay that way.
We arrived to Santa Marta red eyed and cranky. I swore to the universe and my god that would be my last overnight bus of this trip. Thankfully it will.
Colombian´s are wonderful torturers and have many different methods I have not yet seen in my young adult life. Like putting the air conditioning on max when it is around 95F outside. Or having a transistor radio blasting for 12 hours, kinda like being in a tour bus but without all the useful tidbits of information. I will not forget the torture of going 80 kilometers and hour around curvy roads with the driver taking into deep consideration that once you are in a comfortable position he simply could not let you stay that way.
We arrived to Santa Marta red eyed and cranky. I swore to the universe and my god that would be my last overnight bus of this trip. Thankfully it will.
It´s Like Eating Ants
After one more day in Bogota (to visit the amazing Botero exhibit!) we headed north to Villa de Leyba, a small colonial village. 
Cuy (Guinea Pig) betting in Bogota. Guess which plastic hut the pig will end up in!
Villa de Leyba is sleepy and relaxing, with cobblestone streets and friendly locals. There is tons of hiking around the area but we got rained out and opted for afternoon naps instead.
2 days later and a 5 hour bus ride north took us to San Gil, the adventure capital of Colombia- that is if you are ready to fork over thousands of pesos. We decided instead to pay 4 bucks to get into the local park and make our own adventure. 
The next day, while waiting for our night bus, we took a short ride to the national monument village of Barichara. Say that fast 3 times, it´s fun. Barichara was an excellent place to wander, with beautiful scenery and colonial architecture. Even in the rain it was fun to spend a few hours exploring the town.
We also tried the local cuisine, hormigas tostadas. Fat butted, herb eating ants that are toasted and salted. After paying 10,000 pesos for a jar (that is about 5 bucks) we decided- they taste just like eating ants.
Thursday, June 4, 2009
Manizales, Colombia
5-29-09
After crepes and a bottle of wine we kicked off our first night in Manizales at a club- where we shared a little table with our little bottle of potent anis flavored Aguardiente. We smiled as friendly Colombians came over to chat with us and offer timbal lessons, which none of us completly succeeded in tapping with just enough emotion. Then we gaped at the dancers, as even the chubby men swayed just perfectly to the music. I think dancing is something you are born with in this country.
The highlight for us was when the police stormed the place, shut down the music and made the men gather in the middle of the dance floor to be searched. Elodie and I could not stop laughing (maybe it was the aguardiente) and had to bite our lips because we could see by the looks the police were giving us, this was not a laughing matter. It was just too stereotypial Colombia to be taken seriously. When the police felt they had installed enough fear, they stormed out and the party resumed within seconds, as if nothing had happened. Alrighty then.
The next day we took off in taxi, bus and another bus to Guayabal where we wanted to tour a coffee hacienda. It turned out to be a fantastic tour- well organized and we learned about Colombian methods of growing.
It is a beautiful hacienda and well worth the entire trip to Manizales. http://www.haciendaguayabal.com/
After the tour, they served us an elegant lunch in the main house and we chatted about Presidente Uribe and the FARC with a Colombiano in our group.
In the past 7 years Colombia has just opened up to tourism. It is because of Uribes strict security measures that tourists can even be in the country. Colombianos themselves were not safe traveling before then. It is apparent in Manizales, a wonderful place to visit, that they are just getting set up for tourism. Taxi drivers do not even know where the only 2 hostels in the city are located.
Our last day was spent in combat playing paintball in the local park. That night we taxied it up to a thermal bath and enjoyed our last night with Elodie and Paul.
The next day it was back to Bogota to check out the Botero museum and then off to Villa de Leyba, making our way north to the carribean coast.
After crepes and a bottle of wine we kicked off our first night in Manizales at a club- where we shared a little table with our little bottle of potent anis flavored Aguardiente. We smiled as friendly Colombians came over to chat with us and offer timbal lessons, which none of us completly succeeded in tapping with just enough emotion. Then we gaped at the dancers, as even the chubby men swayed just perfectly to the music. I think dancing is something you are born with in this country.
The highlight for us was when the police stormed the place, shut down the music and made the men gather in the middle of the dance floor to be searched. Elodie and I could not stop laughing (maybe it was the aguardiente) and had to bite our lips because we could see by the looks the police were giving us, this was not a laughing matter. It was just too stereotypial Colombia to be taken seriously. When the police felt they had installed enough fear, they stormed out and the party resumed within seconds, as if nothing had happened. Alrighty then.
The next day we took off in taxi, bus and another bus to Guayabal where we wanted to tour a coffee hacienda. It turned out to be a fantastic tour- well organized and we learned about Colombian methods of growing.
It is a beautiful hacienda and well worth the entire trip to Manizales. http://www.haciendaguayabal.com/
After the tour, they served us an elegant lunch in the main house and we chatted about Presidente Uribe and the FARC with a Colombiano in our group.
In the past 7 years Colombia has just opened up to tourism. It is because of Uribes strict security measures that tourists can even be in the country. Colombianos themselves were not safe traveling before then. It is apparent in Manizales, a wonderful place to visit, that they are just getting set up for tourism. Taxi drivers do not even know where the only 2 hostels in the city are located.
Our last day was spent in combat playing paintball in the local park. That night we taxied it up to a thermal bath and enjoyed our last night with Elodie and Paul.
The next day it was back to Bogota to check out the Botero museum and then off to Villa de Leyba, making our way north to the carribean coast.
Bogota, Colombia
5-27-09
We arrived at dusk, with dimming views of the cordillera oriental that borders the immense city of Bogota.
Our friends who we traveled with in Uyuni, Bolivia were also in Bogota (pure universal coincidence), we met up and decided to leave the next night with them to the cafetera region. But that still left one full day to explore Bogota.
The four of us wandered around la Candelaria and historic Bogota, passing through the immense Plaza Bolivar, the catedral and around the Presidential Palace. We were stoped various times by military police who had a look in our bags. There were parts of the sidewalk you could not walk on. As we passed the gates where cars shuttle through, we witnessed a car being inspected. They had mirrors to look under the car and 2 dogs circled the car- I was too intimidated to take a picture, it was unreal to me. It was suffucating to be around so many military police with arms tightly around cold machine guns.
After lunch at the famous fast food restauraunt, El Corral (yes, better than McDonalds), we took the Teleferico up to Monserrate and breathed in amazing views of Bogota.
It was fun to be with friends again- after seeing strangers day after day. That night we climbed into our first Colombian bus and headed off on our 8 hour journey to Manizales.
We arrived at dusk, with dimming views of the cordillera oriental that borders the immense city of Bogota.
Our friends who we traveled with in Uyuni, Bolivia were also in Bogota (pure universal coincidence), we met up and decided to leave the next night with them to the cafetera region. But that still left one full day to explore Bogota.
The four of us wandered around la Candelaria and historic Bogota, passing through the immense Plaza Bolivar, the catedral and around the Presidential Palace. We were stoped various times by military police who had a look in our bags. There were parts of the sidewalk you could not walk on. As we passed the gates where cars shuttle through, we witnessed a car being inspected. They had mirrors to look under the car and 2 dogs circled the car- I was too intimidated to take a picture, it was unreal to me. It was suffucating to be around so many military police with arms tightly around cold machine guns.
After lunch at the famous fast food restauraunt, El Corral (yes, better than McDonalds), we took the Teleferico up to Monserrate and breathed in amazing views of Bogota.
It was fun to be with friends again- after seeing strangers day after day. That night we climbed into our first Colombian bus and headed off on our 8 hour journey to Manizales.
What have we been up to the past month?
Apologies, fell off the grid for a month. We made our way from northern Peru, back down to the south and up to Colombia, all in a span of 2 weeks.
After our 4 days in the jungle, we returned to the city of Iquitos for a few days where we relaxed, ate some good food and made new friends. We returned to the jungle a few days later to stay with a shaman at a healing center. It was here we drank a medicinal plant called Ayahuasca:
Ayahuasca is considered by many of the indigenous peoples of the Amazon to be the Mother of All Medicines. The medicine reaches deep into the body’s systems and cleanses and energizes. It often provides a powerful kinesthetic and visionary journey and opens the mind and body to information pertinent to your life awareness. Most come away with a life altering experience.
It was a life altering experience and a deeply personal one. Please let Greg or I know if you want to know more, we are happy to share our personal adventure.
Picture with the shamans at the Refugio del Altiplano
Arriving back in Iquitos after another 3 days in the jungle, we flew to Tarapoto, northern Peru. (The only way out of Iquitos is on a plane or a boat). In Tarapoto we learned that Gregs grandmother was very ill and was in the hospital. We decided to cancel our final leg of Peru, which would have us far away from secure internet and phone connections. We left the next day for Lima.
Over the next couple days, staying in close contact with Lille, we found that Gregs Mamy was improving and sent back home. Also during this time, I found out that my grandmother was also in the hospital. By the end of the week, to our great relief, both our grandmothers were back at home and recovering.
We are grateful.
Since we were by an international airport and wanted to stay out of rural Peru - we pushed up our arrival to Colombia. Next stop, Bogota.
After our 4 days in the jungle, we returned to the city of Iquitos for a few days where we relaxed, ate some good food and made new friends. We returned to the jungle a few days later to stay with a shaman at a healing center. It was here we drank a medicinal plant called Ayahuasca:
Ayahuasca is considered by many of the indigenous peoples of the Amazon to be the Mother of All Medicines. The medicine reaches deep into the body’s systems and cleanses and energizes. It often provides a powerful kinesthetic and visionary journey and opens the mind and body to information pertinent to your life awareness. Most come away with a life altering experience.
It was a life altering experience and a deeply personal one. Please let Greg or I know if you want to know more, we are happy to share our personal adventure.
Picture with the shamans at the Refugio del AltiplanoArriving back in Iquitos after another 3 days in the jungle, we flew to Tarapoto, northern Peru. (The only way out of Iquitos is on a plane or a boat). In Tarapoto we learned that Gregs grandmother was very ill and was in the hospital. We decided to cancel our final leg of Peru, which would have us far away from secure internet and phone connections. We left the next day for Lima.
Over the next couple days, staying in close contact with Lille, we found that Gregs Mamy was improving and sent back home. Also during this time, I found out that my grandmother was also in the hospital. By the end of the week, to our great relief, both our grandmothers were back at home and recovering.
We are grateful.
Since we were by an international airport and wanted to stay out of rural Peru - we pushed up our arrival to Colombia. Next stop, Bogota.
Tuesday, May 26, 2009
C'est le Pérou
Je suis bien content d'avoir visité le Perou. C'est magnifique, les paysages sont très divers, les gens sont sympathiques, la cuisine est très bonne.
Cuzco est une belle ville, même si c'est aussi le ghetto des touristes. Le chemin de l'Inca et le Machu Pichu etait fantastique. Je considérais que la visite du Machu Pichu etait l'un des grands moment du voyage et je n'ai pas été déçu.
Cuzco est une belle ville, même si c'est aussi le ghetto des touristes. Le chemin de l'Inca et le Machu Pichu etait fantastique. Je considérais que la visite du Machu Pichu etait l'un des grands moment du voyage et je n'ai pas été déçu.
On a vu les lignes de Nazca. Ces lignes représentent des formes qui ne peuvent être vu que du ciel. La civilisation pre-Inca qui a dessiné ces lignes, n'avait évidemment pas d'avion, ce n'était donc pas pour leur plaisir, mais pour celui des Dieux.
L'oasis dans le désert près de Ica. On a fait du surf dans le sable. Un mec complètement taré nous a conduit dans son buggy a fond la caisse dans le désert. Excellent!
L'experience de la jungle a Iquitos etait grandiose. On a vu plein de d'animaux, j'ai grimpe le long des lianes, conduit la barque a moteur dans la jungle inondee, nagé au milieu des serpents et autres anacondas, bataillé avec des singes a tete rouge.
On a passe 2 jours avec un Shaman en plein milieu de la jungle. La, on a rencontré l'esprit de la foret, et il nous a raconté plein de choses qu'on ne peut pas répéter.
Je me disais que j'allais péter les plombs a cause des moustiques dans la jungle, en fait, c'est pas ca le probleme, c'est les mouches prehistoriques qui piquent, elles s'en foutent de la creme anti-insecte qui tue.
Monday, May 18, 2009
Iquitos, Peru
5-10-09
Getting off the plane and right into a taxi..........we were bombarded with mototaxis, motorcycles, scooters, open air buses. We seemed to be the only car on the road. And actually, that was our only car ride in Iquitos.
Our taxi driver immediatly funneled us into a jungle lodge sales trap. That was fun. We barely had time to get settled into our room before 3 men arrived downstairs to talk to us about their fabulous jungle lodge, and weren´t we lucky, the boss was there himself. Greg and I rolled our eyes as he offered to take us to his office but our grimaces turned to grins as he offered up his motorcycle as a means to get there.
Greg grabbed the bike (and me) and off we went into a sea of motorcycles and mototaxis, with no helmet and flipflops (sorry Dad!). It was really fun, although the ride lasted about 6 minutes.
After some negotiating we decided to go with this guy to his jugle lodge (not always the best move to pick the first giy who comes along). But the price was good and we would have our own guide.
We ate lunch at an american expats´ restaurant, fried aligator and BBQ ribs (he came from Texas 30 years ago for the oil in the region). After lunch we wandered through the dead streets as it was Sunday and Mothers Day, everything was closed. It didnt matter though, the jungle was already relaxing us.
The next day we were surprised to find 3 Peruvians arrive on time to take us to the lodge. We had to travel by car for 1 hour and then by boat for 1 hour to arrive. We took off with our guide, Mike (or May as they say) and arrived for lunch at the lodge.
After lunch we took off on our first adventure, and everyday we had amazing expereinces! A few of the highlights were:
- Holding a sloth
- Iguana spotting
- Pirahna fishing
- Monkeys on our boats
- Swimming in the amazon with pink dolphins
- Climbing tarzan trees
- Taratulas
- Ant watching
- Putting out hands in a termite nest, they are a natural mosquito repellent
The scenery is wonderful, the cloud breathtaking and the noises enchanting. The smells take you away and gliding over the glassy water offers peace and tranquility. The night sounds lull you to sleep and the rain cools the air. La selva es magica.
The jungle is truly a special place and not as scary as one thinks. There is a reality to it all and nothing like the movies.
Getting off the plane and right into a taxi..........we were bombarded with mototaxis, motorcycles, scooters, open air buses. We seemed to be the only car on the road. And actually, that was our only car ride in Iquitos.
Our taxi driver immediatly funneled us into a jungle lodge sales trap. That was fun. We barely had time to get settled into our room before 3 men arrived downstairs to talk to us about their fabulous jungle lodge, and weren´t we lucky, the boss was there himself. Greg and I rolled our eyes as he offered to take us to his office but our grimaces turned to grins as he offered up his motorcycle as a means to get there.
Greg grabbed the bike (and me) and off we went into a sea of motorcycles and mototaxis, with no helmet and flipflops (sorry Dad!). It was really fun, although the ride lasted about 6 minutes.
After some negotiating we decided to go with this guy to his jugle lodge (not always the best move to pick the first giy who comes along). But the price was good and we would have our own guide.
We ate lunch at an american expats´ restaurant, fried aligator and BBQ ribs (he came from Texas 30 years ago for the oil in the region). After lunch we wandered through the dead streets as it was Sunday and Mothers Day, everything was closed. It didnt matter though, the jungle was already relaxing us.
The next day we were surprised to find 3 Peruvians arrive on time to take us to the lodge. We had to travel by car for 1 hour and then by boat for 1 hour to arrive. We took off with our guide, Mike (or May as they say) and arrived for lunch at the lodge.
After lunch we took off on our first adventure, and everyday we had amazing expereinces! A few of the highlights were:
- Holding a sloth
- Iguana spotting
- Pirahna fishing
- Monkeys on our boats
- Swimming in the amazon with pink dolphins
- Climbing tarzan trees
- Taratulas
- Ant watching
- Putting out hands in a termite nest, they are a natural mosquito repellent
The scenery is wonderful, the cloud breathtaking and the noises enchanting. The smells take you away and gliding over the glassy water offers peace and tranquility. The night sounds lull you to sleep and the rain cools the air. La selva es magica.
The jungle is truly a special place and not as scary as one thinks. There is a reality to it all and nothing like the movies.
Sunday, May 17, 2009
Lima
5-6-09
¨What a mess¨, was all we thought entering the city from the south. There was traffic, smog, pressing amounts of noise and brown seemed to be the reoccuring color.
We were arriving from Hucachina, a small desert oasis, where we spent a few blissful days relaxing in the sun, enjoying a rollercoasterish dune buggy ride, sandboarding and hanging out with new friends.
Lima promised find gourmet food- all travelers we have met say Lima is where it is at for food in South America.
After we found a place to drop the backpacks, we took a taxi to find some sushi. It was expensive and disspointing, so we had a sandwich after. =)
Lima is a hige city and the wealthy areas look stragely like Los Angeles, old LA that is. I kept tripping out over how much it was like the US. There was even a Whole Foods type store, which we wandered around in just looking. Since we were covered by a thick gloomy fog, we spent our time eating, sleeping, walking and we watched the new Star Trek in the theatre. It was not our most exotic stop thusfar.
But I did get to eat good sushi! Twice=)
¨What a mess¨, was all we thought entering the city from the south. There was traffic, smog, pressing amounts of noise and brown seemed to be the reoccuring color.
We were arriving from Hucachina, a small desert oasis, where we spent a few blissful days relaxing in the sun, enjoying a rollercoasterish dune buggy ride, sandboarding and hanging out with new friends.
Lima promised find gourmet food- all travelers we have met say Lima is where it is at for food in South America.
After we found a place to drop the backpacks, we took a taxi to find some sushi. It was expensive and disspointing, so we had a sandwich after. =)
Lima is a hige city and the wealthy areas look stragely like Los Angeles, old LA that is. I kept tripping out over how much it was like the US. There was even a Whole Foods type store, which we wandered around in just looking. Since we were covered by a thick gloomy fog, we spent our time eating, sleeping, walking and we watched the new Star Trek in the theatre. It was not our most exotic stop thusfar.
But I did get to eat good sushi! Twice=)
Sunday, May 3, 2009
Updates soon
Greg and I have been jumping around quite a bit since we arived in Peru.....
Machu Picchu!
Colca Canyon, near Arequipa.
Cusco
4 day Inka Trek.....to Machu Picchu!
back to Cusco...overnight stay by the Templo de la Luna outside of the city
Long bus to Arequipa..yawn
Another long bus to Cabanaconde and a wonderful 3 days down in the Colca Canyon
Back to Arequipa
Off to Nazca....another long, overnight bus
We are loving Peru, the people, the food and the scenery.
Promise to get pics and updates online soon. We are hoping for a good internet connection in Lima...and there are also rumors of good sushi in Lima.
Here are some highlights!
Machu Picchu! Colca Canyon, near Arequipa. Speaking donkey
More soon....much love to all our friends and family.
More soon....much love to all our friends and family.Saturday, April 18, 2009
Magical Lake Titicaca
Greg and I spent 3 days around Lake Titicaca, one of the highest navigable lakes in the world.
We took a small boat to Isla del Sol (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Isla_del_Sol), hiked from the north to the south and stayed the night in a room that overlooked the beautiful lake. It truly is a magical place and the fresh air cleared our heads from the smog in La Paz.
After a short boat ride back to land, we ran to a bus filled with tourists and offically ended our 1 month and 3 day stay in Bolivia. I passed through customs with a smile but Greg was left behind with Bolivian hands in his pockets.
We joyously crossed the border by foot, exchanged our Bolivianos for Soles and made our way into Peru.
Next stop Cusco!
We took a small boat to Isla del Sol (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Isla_del_Sol), hiked from the north to the south and stayed the night in a room that overlooked the beautiful lake. It truly is a magical place and the fresh air cleared our heads from the smog in La Paz.
After a short boat ride back to land, we ran to a bus filled with tourists and offically ended our 1 month and 3 day stay in Bolivia. I passed through customs with a smile but Greg was left behind with Bolivian hands in his pockets.
We joyously crossed the border by foot, exchanged our Bolivianos for Soles and made our way into Peru.
Next stop Cusco!
Thursday, April 16, 2009
Now that we are in Peru, let's summarize Bolivia
We came in Bolivia with great expectations,we liked Evo Morales, the scenery is fantastic...
The first look at La Paz is surreal, it is a huge brown city in the middle of the mountains.
The way people are driving is our big problem here. Car drivers would not stop for a pedestrian. So, it is always a sort of adventure to cross a street.
The food is a good surprise! We were told that in Bolivia, it is rice and bean everyday, with an egg on Sundays. That cannot be more wrong. First of all, we never had beans, and the food was very good, even on treks. In La Paz, there is an excellent restaurant named ¨La Comedie¨, the owner, Bernard, is a french expatriate who has no will to come back to France, loves to live in Bolivia and makes good food.
The first look at La Paz is surreal, it is a huge brown city in the middle of the mountains.
The way people are driving is our big problem here. Car drivers would not stop for a pedestrian. So, it is always a sort of adventure to cross a street.The food is a good surprise! We were told that in Bolivia, it is rice and bean everyday, with an egg on Sundays. That cannot be more wrong. First of all, we never had beans, and the food was very good, even on treks. In La Paz, there is an excellent restaurant named ¨La Comedie¨, the owner, Bernard, is a french expatriate who has no will to come back to France, loves to live in Bolivia and makes good food.
The people in La Paz appeared to us as timid and distant. We did not feel that in Cochabamba for example, we were told that it is common for the people from the altiplano.
Our experience as volonteers in the CAICC was great. I am glad we did that because we had a real, warm contact with Bolivians.
The Salar de Uyuni is spectacular! We were with 2 frenchs on a world tour, Elo and Paulo, http://www.aufeuagauche.com/
Potosi was our next stop. It is famous for its silver mines. We discovered the way of life of a Bolivian miner, chewing coca, drinking a 90% alcool, smoking non-filtered cigarrette, and using dynamite instead of having lunch. Surprisingly, I do not fill the job requirement to be a miner, I am too tall, "c'est la vie!".
We finished Bolivia with the Lake Titicaca, I felt impressed when I saw this huge lake so high in the mountain. The little hike we did on the Isla del sol was beautiful.
Heading to Peru, the Bolivian customs succeded in extorquing 40 Bolivianos to me because I stayed 3 days too much. I gave them a kiss and say goodbye.
Now we are in Peru, some other great adventures are ahead of us...
Mine Crawling
Along with our new friends Paul and Elody, we headed north to a city called Potosi to visit the famous mines.
The bus trip to Potosi was an interesting 7 hour ride that was truly Bolivian at heart. Bumpy dirt roads, quick stops for people to pee on the side of the road and our personal favorite, the tire change.
On arrival to the Cerro Rico, we are shown how the mines are divided into cooperatives and the various roles people play on the mountain. Women and children work outside the mines, cleaning and preparing minerals. The indegenous custom does not allow women to work inside the mines, because of the strong connection to Pacha Mama (mother earth). Pacha Mama would get jealous with too much female energy! However, exceptions are made for tourists.
Inside miners work tediously away by hand with picks, pushing trolleys, and shoveling minerals into bins to be lifted up. Others climbed up and down through small holes barley large enough for me to climb through. It was an interesting but upseting expereince, as one cannot imagine these working conditions could exists today.
I am not sure how long we were down in the mine, but the entire group breathed a sigh of relief when we climbed back out into the blinding light.
Still curious? check out these links.....
http://www.docsonline.tv/Grito%20di%20piedra/index.htm
The bus trip to Potosi was an interesting 7 hour ride that was truly Bolivian at heart. Bumpy dirt roads, quick stops for people to pee on the side of the road and our personal favorite, the tire change.
Potosi was once a thriving city, founded in 1546 as a mining town, it soon produced fabulous wealth, becoming one of the largest cities in the Americas and the world with a population exceeding 200,000 people.
It is from Potosí that most of the silver shipped through the Spanish Main came. According to official records, 45,000 tons of pure silver were mined from 1556 to 1783. Of this total, 7,000 tons went to the Spanish monarchy. Indian labour came to die by the thousands, not simply from exposure and brutal labor, but by mercury poisoning: in the patio process the silver-ore, having been crushed to powder by hydraulic machinery, was cold-mixed with mercury and trodden to an amalgam by the native workers with their bare feet. The mercury was then driven off by heating, producing deadly vapors.
To compensate for the diminishing indigenous labor force, the colonists made a request in 1608 to the Crown in Madrid to begin allowing for the importation of 1500 to 2000 African slaves per year. An estimated total of 30,000 African slaves were taken to Potosí throughout the colonial era. African slaves were also forced to work in the Casa de la Moneda as acémilas humanas (human mules). Since mules would die after couple of months pushing the mills, the colonists replaced the four mules with twenty African slaves.
After 1800 the silver mines became depleted, making tin the main product. This eventually led to a slow economic decline. Still, the mountain continues to be mined for silver to this day. Due to poor worker conditions (lack of protective equipment from the constant inhalation of dust), the miners still have a short life expectancy with most of them contracting silicosis and dying around 40 years of age. It is estimated that, in the past years of indigenous labour, roughly 8 million Indians died, "eaten" by the mountain Cerro Rico (Rich Hill)
PS - The city of San Luis Potosí in Mexico was named after Potosí in Bolivia. In the United States, the name Potosi was optimistically given to lead-mining towns of Potosi, Wisconsin and Potosi, Missouri, and also to the silver-mining town of Potosi, Nevada.
HISTORY LESSON OVER =)
Arrival to Potosi takes your breath away, it is claimed to be the highest city in the world at a nominal 4,090 m (13,420 feet).
We found a great hostel (Koala Den) for super cheap with cable and HOT water! It was central a a short walk to the main plaza and pedestrian mall. The next day we hooked up with Elody and Paul to go on the mine tour.
First, they dress you in a smashing yellow getup, including a matching hard hat. The first stop was at the miners market, where the groups buy gifts for the miners. The miners chew coca leaves by the pound, which helps them work longer hours without eating or resting (to learn more about coca chewing: http://www.cocamuseum.com/htm/chewing.htm ). We bought a bag of coca leaves, cigarrettes, cookies (for the kids) and because a mine visit would not be complete without it, dynamite.
The men work in groups of 10 to 12, each with specific roles. Level 4 and 3 miners work the shit jobs pushing carts and all hard labor, while level 2 miners handle dynamite and work meters below the others and level 1 miners ar usual the cooperative owners and often do not work at all, just supervise. The richer the cooparative is, the more tools they can afford. A poor cooperative works only by hand. To add to the misery of the working conditions, only the cooperative owner gets government covered health care and the workers are left undeclared. (note that the life expectancy of a miner is 40 years)
After the dynamite show (which turned out to be much more explosive than we all expected), we headed towards the mine entrance.
After the dynamite show (which turned out to be much more explosive than we all expected), we headed towards the mine entrance.
After going down just one short flight of stairs, I began to feel my chest tighten and my heart picked up. Both Paul and I looked at each other and said, ¨It´s cool, we will wait for you guys up top.¨ The guide did a good job at convincing us this was a once in a lifetime experience and we took a deep breath (seperated so we would not scare each other) and climbed down further.
As it turns out, I could comfortably work in a mine. While Greg and the others strained their necks to bend down through the small passages, I strolled along with my head held high.
Still curious? check out these links.....
Saturday, April 11, 2009
Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia
After 2 exciting weeks of hard work we found ourselves on vacation, again. Cochambamba was an amazing experience, one that we will never forget.
We left early morning to catch a train a few hours south in Oururo. In usual form, we had no reservations. We stood in front of a blank face employee for 10 minutes while he typed into his computer to be told that the train was full. There was another couple in our same position so the 4 of us sat around waiting to see if any spots would open up. The heavens parted and 4 seats were at last given to us, in ¨fancy¨ class.
The train rambled down to the town of Uyuni at a pleasant speed. The views were nice and the food car (although steaming hot) was a nice place to pass the 6 hour ride chatting with our new (french) friends.
On arrival the 4 of us found a cheap place to stay and decided to meet in the morning to find a tour together. We left the very next morning on a 4 day trip to see the various sights around Uyuni and of course, visit the salt flats. The tour is usually 3 days, but we extended it to 4, cut out 2 other passengers and did the trip inversed. This worked great because we had plenty of space in the 4x4 truck, plenty of time to see everything, and less tourists in our photo shoots. Our guide was also the driver, mechanic and cook, which was interesting at times....
We saw endless desert landscape sprinkled with random volcanic rocks and lagoons. Flamingos
flock to this area because of the rich soil and shallow lagoons. The hospedajes we stayed in were basic and on the last night we stayed in a hotel made of salt.
The last day was by far the most breathtaking as we tumbled out of bed at 5am to watch the sunset over the salt flats. The salt flats reach far and the vision is impressive. Once we had some coffee in us, we spent a good 45 minutes trying to capture funny pictures.......
By the 4th day we were professional Uno players, discovered the limi
ts of Bolivian wine and had made 2 new friends.
We left early morning to catch a train a few hours south in Oururo. In usual form, we had no reservations. We stood in front of a blank face employee for 10 minutes while he typed into his computer to be told that the train was full. There was another couple in our same position so the 4 of us sat around waiting to see if any spots would open up. The heavens parted and 4 seats were at last given to us, in ¨fancy¨ class.
The train rambled down to the town of Uyuni at a pleasant speed. The views were nice and the food car (although steaming hot) was a nice place to pass the 6 hour ride chatting with our new (french) friends.
On arrival the 4 of us found a cheap place to stay and decided to meet in the morning to find a tour together. We left the very next morning on a 4 day trip to see the various sights around Uyuni and of course, visit the salt flats. The tour is usually 3 days, but we extended it to 4, cut out 2 other passengers and did the trip inversed. This worked great because we had plenty of space in the 4x4 truck, plenty of time to see everything, and less tourists in our photo shoots. Our guide was also the driver, mechanic and cook, which was interesting at times....
We saw endless desert landscape sprinkled with random volcanic rocks and lagoons. Flamingos
flock to this area because of the rich soil and shallow lagoons. The hospedajes we stayed in were basic and on the last night we stayed in a hotel made of salt.The last day was by far the most breathtaking as we tumbled out of bed at 5am to watch the sunset over the salt flats. The salt flats reach far and the vision is impressive. Once we had some coffee in us, we spent a good 45 minutes trying to capture funny pictures.......
By the 4th day we were professional Uno players, discovered the limi
ts of Bolivian wine and had made 2 new friends.Sunday, March 29, 2009
Cochambamba, Bolivia
Greg and I hooked up with a ONG (NGO) called Bolivia Sostenible to volunteer for a week in Cochambamba, hometown of Evo Morales.
We were both placed at an organization called CAICC, that serves children and adolescents who are abandoned because their parents are either incarcerated or have migrated to other countries to search for economic opportunities. CAICC currently aids 171 children and adolescents ranging from one to eighteen years old. 70% of these are children of incarcerated or ex-incarcerated individuals, while the other 30% come from low income families where volatile situations prevail.
http://www.caiccbolivia.com/
We spent the first week getting to know the organization, it´s children and staff. Greg works in the big house with the administration and older kids while I work in the little house with the small ones, age 2 to 6. Greg is the superstar with his computer skills.....and I am getting peed on, literally. =)
Because of low funding (the government only gives food) the school lacks resources. The yard of the little house is depressing and dangerous. Beside the pile of rocks in the corner there is little else for the children to play with. Greg and I wanted to donate in a way that was lasting and we decided to make-over the playground in the little house. It was so important not only for the children but for the teachers to have a safe place for them to play.
Yesterday, along with one other volunteer and 3 staff members we tore apart the yard, clearing the rocks, piles of dirt and trash with picks and shovels. We painted the rocks to add color, turned a cement block into a stage, added a cover for shade and buried 5 tires halfway in the ground for jumping and climbing. The best part is that on Monday a brand new swing set, complete with a slide and see-saw, will arrive! It was a hard days work and we felt quite satisfied at the end. I promise to post some pics later, to show the before and after. Right now we are excited to see the kids reaction tomorrow morning!
Greg and I spend the days doing our proper jobs and then head off to explore the city before walking back to our host family´s home for dinner. Our host family has a comfortable home and we love the family. Tonight there is a party for the son whose birthday is the same day as mine!
We have a great set-up here and are going to stay a week longer. There is still so much work to be done at the centers and we are enjoying the people and the work. Next week we will visit the prisons where the kids live.
If anyone is interested in hearing more about CAICC or would like to donate money, let me know.
We were both placed at an organization called CAICC, that serves children and adolescents who are abandoned because their parents are either incarcerated or have migrated to other countries to search for economic opportunities. CAICC currently aids 171 children and adolescents ranging from one to eighteen years old. 70% of these are children of incarcerated or ex-incarcerated individuals, while the other 30% come from low income families where volatile situations prevail.
http://www.caiccbolivia.com/
We spent the first week getting to know the organization, it´s children and staff. Greg works in the big house with the administration and older kids while I work in the little house with the small ones, age 2 to 6. Greg is the superstar with his computer skills.....and I am getting peed on, literally. =)
Because of low funding (the government only gives food) the school lacks resources. The yard of the little house is depressing and dangerous. Beside the pile of rocks in the corner there is little else for the children to play with. Greg and I wanted to donate in a way that was lasting and we decided to make-over the playground in the little house. It was so important not only for the children but for the teachers to have a safe place for them to play.
Yesterday, along with one other volunteer and 3 staff members we tore apart the yard, clearing the rocks, piles of dirt and trash with picks and shovels. We painted the rocks to add color, turned a cement block into a stage, added a cover for shade and buried 5 tires halfway in the ground for jumping and climbing. The best part is that on Monday a brand new swing set, complete with a slide and see-saw, will arrive! It was a hard days work and we felt quite satisfied at the end. I promise to post some pics later, to show the before and after. Right now we are excited to see the kids reaction tomorrow morning!
Greg and I spend the days doing our proper jobs and then head off to explore the city before walking back to our host family´s home for dinner. Our host family has a comfortable home and we love the family. Tonight there is a party for the son whose birthday is the same day as mine!
We have a great set-up here and are going to stay a week longer. There is still so much work to be done at the centers and we are enjoying the people and the work. Next week we will visit the prisons where the kids live.
If anyone is interested in hearing more about CAICC or would like to donate money, let me know.
Camino del Inca, Bolivia
After 4 days in La Paz, we headed out for the mountains to d a 3 day trek......a well known trail that follows an ancient Incan road called El Choro (because it follows the Choro river).
The trek starts at 4,900 meters (in snow) and ends 3 days later at 1,300 meters (in the jungle). We had a guide and a cook (and the cooks´ boyfriend) along with us to help with the gear and food. Because of the slippery stone roads (imagine Indian Jones) we were thankful for the help.
The scenery was breathtaking! The air was fresh and the 6-7 hour a day walks were relaxing but sometimes strenous. It was interesting to see how people live in the mountain ranges, in very remote villages and homes made of adobe or rock. We camped on the second night outside of a family home, where 2 very curious girls lived with their mother and grandfather. They had just arrived with their mother to help the grandfather with the Easter pilgrimages that all Bolivians make during Semana Santa (Holy Week). They were quite the country girls and at one moment Greg pointed next to me laughing as the little one pulled her pants down to have a quick pee arms length from me. Considering their toilet was a hole on the side of the mountain, I could understand there was not much difference.
Bolivia has scenery unlike anywhere else. The people truly live off the land here, many using methods of farming used by the Inca. Bolivians are shy but helpful and always have a question for you about where you come from. Even with the patches of rain and fog the trek was glorious and memorable.
The trek starts at 4,900 meters (in snow) and ends 3 days later at 1,300 meters (in the jungle). We had a guide and a cook (and the cooks´ boyfriend) along with us to help with the gear and food. Because of the slippery stone roads (imagine Indian Jones) we were thankful for the help.
The scenery was breathtaking! The air was fresh and the 6-7 hour a day walks were relaxing but sometimes strenous. It was interesting to see how people live in the mountain ranges, in very remote villages and homes made of adobe or rock. We camped on the second night outside of a family home, where 2 very curious girls lived with their mother and grandfather. They had just arrived with their mother to help the grandfather with the Easter pilgrimages that all Bolivians make during Semana Santa (Holy Week). They were quite the country girls and at one moment Greg pointed next to me laughing as the little one pulled her pants down to have a quick pee arms length from me. Considering their toilet was a hole on the side of the mountain, I could understand there was not much difference.
Bolivia has scenery unlike anywhere else. The people truly live off the land here, many using methods of farming used by the Inca. Bolivians are shy but helpful and always have a question for you about where you come from. Even with the patches of rain and fog the trek was glorious and memorable.
Saturday, March 21, 2009
Cuidad de La Paz, Bolivia
March 14, 2009
Located at an altitude of 3,660 metres (12,008 ft), it is the world's highest capital city.
Also known as Chuquiago Marka or Chuqiyapu from Aymara: "chuqi" = gold, "yapu" = farm. La Paz was founded by the spanish colonialists in 1548 and originally named Nuestra Señora de La Paz (meaning Our Lady of Peace).
We arrived to our hostal in the early afternoon and after climbing 3 flights of stairs to our room I was left gasping for air. We had just come from ground zero and had spent the past month and a half lying around on the beach!
By the second day of taking it easy we were adjusted to the altitude and walking up and down the steep streets of La Paz exploring. The first day we just wandered, checking out the witches market and the famous Murillo plaza (where the government palacios are).
The second day we went to the large church, Iglesia de San Francisco, and discovered a museum next to the main door. The museum was a cultural and historical experience as it lead us through the oldest jesuit church in La Paz built by the indegenous polulation. The church had a huge collection of anonomous paintings by indians whom illustrated various biblical stories as they understood them (many of the paintings were not a true reflection on the bible). The church was also built in a style called- baroque indigena, a style completely invented by the indegenous population. Instead of long, triangular style roof, it was curved and circular and there were large windows throughout. The church was built by the Aymara peoples, whom were colonized around the mid 1500's. An mark was left on each stone comprising the church by the workers, as if to say 'that was me! I built this'. The marks are still visible on the stones all around the church and monastary. The tour ended with a surprise- on the roof, in the bell tower, with an amazing view of the downtown area and the surrounding mountains.
La Paz opened up to us within a few days, it takes some exploring to really experience the city. There was too much to do and see, we are planning on coming back after exploring the southern part of Bolivia. Oh, and Greg wants to eat at the fabulous french restauraunt we already visited (it was that good, and cheap!).
Located at an altitude of 3,660 metres (12,008 ft), it is the world's highest capital city.
Also known as Chuquiago Marka or Chuqiyapu from Aymara: "chuqi" = gold, "yapu" = farm. La Paz was founded by the spanish colonialists in 1548 and originally named Nuestra Señora de La Paz (meaning Our Lady of Peace).
We arrived to our hostal in the early afternoon and after climbing 3 flights of stairs to our room I was left gasping for air. We had just come from ground zero and had spent the past month and a half lying around on the beach!
By the second day of taking it easy we were adjusted to the altitude and walking up and down the steep streets of La Paz exploring. The first day we just wandered, checking out the witches market and the famous Murillo plaza (where the government palacios are).
The second day we went to the large church, Iglesia de San Francisco, and discovered a museum next to the main door. The museum was a cultural and historical experience as it lead us through the oldest jesuit church in La Paz built by the indegenous polulation. The church had a huge collection of anonomous paintings by indians whom illustrated various biblical stories as they understood them (many of the paintings were not a true reflection on the bible). The church was also built in a style called- baroque indigena, a style completely invented by the indegenous population. Instead of long, triangular style roof, it was curved and circular and there were large windows throughout. The church was built by the Aymara peoples, whom were colonized around the mid 1500's. An mark was left on each stone comprising the church by the workers, as if to say 'that was me! I built this'. The marks are still visible on the stones all around the church and monastary. The tour ended with a surprise- on the roof, in the bell tower, with an amazing view of the downtown area and the surrounding mountains.
La Paz opened up to us within a few days, it takes some exploring to really experience the city. There was too much to do and see, we are planning on coming back after exploring the southern part of Bolivia. Oh, and Greg wants to eat at the fabulous french restauraunt we already visited (it was that good, and cheap!).
Saturday, March 14, 2009
Cidade Maravilhosa
From the top of Pão de Açúcar, I fell in love with Rio de Janiero.
We arrived from an 18 hour bus ride in the late afternoon. After dumping our bags off in our 9 person hostel room (picture bunk beds on crack- 3 beds loaded ontop of each other instead of 2), we left to wander.
Our first tourist stop was the famous teleférico, Pao de Acucar. It is an interesting aerial tramway that takes you to a high point with stunning views of Rio. Being tourists in the city famous for muggings, we thought it best to leave our camera at the hostel. Not the smartest move...but lucky fo us we met a couple of french people who happily snapped some pictures of us and promised to send them. We also made plans to meet up later for drinks in Lapa (known for it's night life).
We had a good time that night, sharing some stories over drinks and getting to know our new friends (Asmaa et Souhail). We ended at a samba club until late (as we missed the last metro) and left at closing.
Day 2 was a rough start due to the festivities of the night before and we spent the morning fighting the Finnish for breakfats (long story, best to be told later). We hopped on a tour bus in the afternoon and were shuttled around town in a most embarrasing way to all the hot tourist spots. Lesson learned, skip the city tour. Later that night we treated ourselves to the most amazing churrascaria- Picao! It was all you can eat (as most are) but the 'extras' spread was incredible. There was even sushi! We shared 2 delicous bottles of wine (one Chilean and one Argentine) and ate meat until we nearly passed out. The favorite was picahna, a meat we learned of in the north that was the most tender meat served in Brazil. Greg and I had such a good time, we were the last of 2 tables left in the massive restauraunt.
Day 3 was full of big plans, the beach. We spent the morning at Copacabana beach laughing at all the ridicoulos wrinkled old people and red faced tourists...tried to have a swim but the waves crash down so close to the shore it made for an exciting challenge in keeping your bathing suit on. We spent the late afternoon in Santa Teresa, Rio's bohemian scene, and ate at Espirito Santa which provided a green terrace to eat and enjoy the view.
Day 4, our last full day and honestly one of the best days of the trip. I don't think I can explain exactly why, so I guess it will just have to be recorded as such. We did, however, have to fight the damn Fins for breakfast once again (argh). We spent the morning downtown, trying to change the last of our random money so we could scrape by withour getting to a ATM. Mission accomplished, we wanted to check out a famous cafeteria for lunch. Greg and I had a long lunch (and dessert), enjoying our conversation and the atmosphere of the old style cafeteria (see pictures). We eventually made our way to Ipanema beach and loved every minute of the remainder of the day spent there. There was sun bathing, people watching and swimming involved. After our last ocean swim was commemerated and the sun god had gone off to bed, we ran back to our hostel in a torrential rain, wading through shin deep waters. The day ended with dinner and early turn in, as we had to get a 3am taxi to the airport.
It was time to say goodbye to the beach and hello to the mountains of Bolivia.
I loved the hot humid weather of Brazil, the sand in my toes and salt in my hair. I cried just a little when I said goodbye to my flipflops and bathing suit as I pulled my boots out from the bottom of my pack. Goodbye tan, see you in Columbia!
Rio de Janiero is a wonderful and enchanting city! We can't wait to find another excuse to go back (there is still so much to see in all of Brazil). Did I mention how wonderful Brazilenos are? We met some amzing characters and felt very welcomed everywhere we traveled.
We arrived from an 18 hour bus ride in the late afternoon. After dumping our bags off in our 9 person hostel room (picture bunk beds on crack- 3 beds loaded ontop of each other instead of 2), we left to wander.
Our first tourist stop was the famous teleférico, Pao de Acucar. It is an interesting aerial tramway that takes you to a high point with stunning views of Rio. Being tourists in the city famous for muggings, we thought it best to leave our camera at the hostel. Not the smartest move...but lucky fo us we met a couple of french people who happily snapped some pictures of us and promised to send them. We also made plans to meet up later for drinks in Lapa (known for it's night life).
We had a good time that night, sharing some stories over drinks and getting to know our new friends (Asmaa et Souhail). We ended at a samba club until late (as we missed the last metro) and left at closing.
Day 2 was a rough start due to the festivities of the night before and we spent the morning fighting the Finnish for breakfats (long story, best to be told later). We hopped on a tour bus in the afternoon and were shuttled around town in a most embarrasing way to all the hot tourist spots. Lesson learned, skip the city tour. Later that night we treated ourselves to the most amazing churrascaria- Picao! It was all you can eat (as most are) but the 'extras' spread was incredible. There was even sushi! We shared 2 delicous bottles of wine (one Chilean and one Argentine) and ate meat until we nearly passed out. The favorite was picahna, a meat we learned of in the north that was the most tender meat served in Brazil. Greg and I had such a good time, we were the last of 2 tables left in the massive restauraunt.
Day 3 was full of big plans, the beach. We spent the morning at Copacabana beach laughing at all the ridicoulos wrinkled old people and red faced tourists...tried to have a swim but the waves crash down so close to the shore it made for an exciting challenge in keeping your bathing suit on. We spent the late afternoon in Santa Teresa, Rio's bohemian scene, and ate at Espirito Santa which provided a green terrace to eat and enjoy the view.
Day 4, our last full day and honestly one of the best days of the trip. I don't think I can explain exactly why, so I guess it will just have to be recorded as such. We did, however, have to fight the damn Fins for breakfast once again (argh). We spent the morning downtown, trying to change the last of our random money so we could scrape by withour getting to a ATM. Mission accomplished, we wanted to check out a famous cafeteria for lunch. Greg and I had a long lunch (and dessert), enjoying our conversation and the atmosphere of the old style cafeteria (see pictures). We eventually made our way to Ipanema beach and loved every minute of the remainder of the day spent there. There was sun bathing, people watching and swimming involved. After our last ocean swim was commemerated and the sun god had gone off to bed, we ran back to our hostel in a torrential rain, wading through shin deep waters. The day ended with dinner and early turn in, as we had to get a 3am taxi to the airport.
It was time to say goodbye to the beach and hello to the mountains of Bolivia.
I loved the hot humid weather of Brazil, the sand in my toes and salt in my hair. I cried just a little when I said goodbye to my flipflops and bathing suit as I pulled my boots out from the bottom of my pack. Goodbye tan, see you in Columbia!
Rio de Janiero is a wonderful and enchanting city! We can't wait to find another excuse to go back (there is still so much to see in all of Brazil). Did I mention how wonderful Brazilenos are? We met some amzing characters and felt very welcomed everywhere we traveled.
Monday, March 9, 2009
Fernando de Norohna
February 24, 2009
After 7 days inthe middle of the 2nd largest street Carnival in Brazil (Olinda!), Greg and I escaped to one of the most beautiful places in Brazil, and quite possibly the world.
We were lucky to spend 9 days on one of the most spectacular islands in Brazil, Fernando de Norohna.
The island is located 500 kilometers off the coast of Recife in northern Brazil. It has 3 of the best beaches in Brazil (there are 5 total). The island is know for it's world class diving and hosts surf competitions that bring surfers from around the globe.
We spent the first few days snorkeling with sea turtles, swiming in a naturaul coral pool with sharks and tropical fish and indulging at an all you can eat sushi restauraunt.
Life was pretty good on the island. You can walk everywhere, the beaches are breathtaking and the water is cool, fresh and electric blue. I was pretty sure I was notever going to leave.
We had staumbled upon a great pousada called Leao Marihno (in case any of you are considering booking your flight soon) that served us breakfast filled withe fresh fruits, homemade breads and delicious coffee all while housing us in a serene room with a hammock out front.
We fell into a serene routine that left us sleepy eyed by 10pm everynight. The quiet streets saved us from the crazy 6 days we had expereince in carnival and we werethankful for the slow pace and relaxed atmosphere of the island. Even the rain was beautiful and swimming with Greg in the ocean during the rain was memorable .
Greg and I took surfing lessons from a local guy, Yappa. Greg took his first lesson during one of my naps and our second lesson was together. It felt epic to be surfing in a place that any surfer would drool over. The second time we went out we rented the board and played in the water as the sun set. The third time I went out solo with Yappa and caught tons of waves but the fun came to an abrupt hault when the board smacked me in the head. In the end, we are addicted and can't wait to surf again in Peru.
Fernando de Norohna is heaven.
After 7 days inthe middle of the 2nd largest street Carnival in Brazil (Olinda!), Greg and I escaped to one of the most beautiful places in Brazil, and quite possibly the world.
We were lucky to spend 9 days on one of the most spectacular islands in Brazil, Fernando de Norohna.
The island is located 500 kilometers off the coast of Recife in northern Brazil. It has 3 of the best beaches in Brazil (there are 5 total). The island is know for it's world class diving and hosts surf competitions that bring surfers from around the globe.
We spent the first few days snorkeling with sea turtles, swiming in a naturaul coral pool with sharks and tropical fish and indulging at an all you can eat sushi restauraunt.
Life was pretty good on the island. You can walk everywhere, the beaches are breathtaking and the water is cool, fresh and electric blue. I was pretty sure I was notever going to leave.
We had staumbled upon a great pousada called Leao Marihno (in case any of you are considering booking your flight soon) that served us breakfast filled withe fresh fruits, homemade breads and delicious coffee all while housing us in a serene room with a hammock out front.
We fell into a serene routine that left us sleepy eyed by 10pm everynight. The quiet streets saved us from the crazy 6 days we had expereince in carnival and we werethankful for the slow pace and relaxed atmosphere of the island. Even the rain was beautiful and swimming with Greg in the ocean during the rain was memorable .
Greg and I took surfing lessons from a local guy, Yappa. Greg took his first lesson during one of my naps and our second lesson was together. It felt epic to be surfing in a place that any surfer would drool over. The second time we went out we rented the board and played in the water as the sun set. The third time I went out solo with Yappa and caught tons of waves but the fun came to an abrupt hault when the board smacked me in the head. In the end, we are addicted and can't wait to surf again in Peru.
Fernando de Norohna is heaven.
Thursday, March 5, 2009
Comment le Bresil a organisé mon anniversaire?
En quittant le Chili, je pensais qu'on allait se détendre au Bresil, je ne me doutais pas que les brésiliens nous attendaient pour féter mon anniversaire.
A Salavador, des fetes s'organisaient partout, c'est la que j'ai commence a boire des Capirinias et des Skol (bieres).
En arrivant a l'aéroport de Recife, il y avait déjà un petit groupe qui nous jouait de la Samba. Olinda, une petite ville sympa a cote de Recife, nous a accueillit pour le jour de mon anniversaire. On s'est retrouve a faire la fete pendant 6 jours. Il y avait des orchestres et des danses dans la rue toute la journee, des boissons a gogo.
Y a eu des moments ou je me suis dit que trop de gens venaient a mon anniversaire, mais bon, il me servaient une skol et c'etait reparti.
Le 23 fevrier, je me suis reveille "pas dans mon assiette". Je diagnostique rapidement que je me suis fracturé le foie, haïe! Je ne pourrais plus boire une goutte d'alcool de ma vie... a moins que mon foie se regenere tel la queue du lezard.
A Salavador, des fetes s'organisaient partout, c'est la que j'ai commence a boire des Capirinias et des Skol (bieres).
En arrivant a l'aéroport de Recife, il y avait déjà un petit groupe qui nous jouait de la Samba. Olinda, une petite ville sympa a cote de Recife, nous a accueillit pour le jour de mon anniversaire. On s'est retrouve a faire la fete pendant 6 jours. Il y avait des orchestres et des danses dans la rue toute la journee, des boissons a gogo.
Y a eu des moments ou je me suis dit que trop de gens venaient a mon anniversaire, mais bon, il me servaient une skol et c'etait reparti.
Le 23 fevrier, je me suis reveille "pas dans mon assiette". Je diagnostique rapidement que je me suis fracturé le foie, haïe! Je ne pourrais plus boire une goutte d'alcool de ma vie... a moins que mon foie se regenere tel la queue du lezard.
Monday, February 23, 2009
Brazil in a blur...
Life has been a colorful blur since we arrived to Brazil.......
4 days in Salvador, the center of Bahia and afro-brazilian culture was a highlight and our side trip to a beautiful beach north was memorable (monkeys and sea turtles!) Then we took off for the mountains, Lençois, to do some hiking and exploring. We took a cave tour and snorkeled in a blue abyss that emptied into a dark cave. It is hard to explain the feeling of swimming in complete darkness (with a flashlight) inside a cave, rich with minerals.
I will post pics soon, as we are in the middle of carnival things are a bit crazy.
Carnival in Olinda has been amazing. It is a small village in the north, tucked to the side of a large city. It is green and historic, with cobblestone streets and old churches. It is the very first place the portugese `discovered´ in Brazil. We arrived 2 days before carnival and found a great apartment overlooking the city and a lush garden (with a pool and hammocks) We are lucky to have a place to hide when we get tired of the sweaty crowds and noise.
Carnival is a crazy, insane mess of everything you can imagine. Costumes, music, singing, parades, dancing......and it never stops! One of the best nights was full of drums, new friends and dancing in the rain.
Large beers for 50 cents and tropical drinks for 1 dollar always lead to a good time! Needless to say, Greg passed a wonderful birthday here in Olinda.
Life is good, we are happy, tan and well fed. We leave tomorrow for Fernando de Norohna, a smal island off the coast of Recife that contains 5 of the best beaches in Brazil (there are 8 best beaches total). We are looking forward to the quiet, lonely beaches.
4 days in Salvador, the center of Bahia and afro-brazilian culture was a highlight and our side trip to a beautiful beach north was memorable (monkeys and sea turtles!) Then we took off for the mountains, Lençois, to do some hiking and exploring. We took a cave tour and snorkeled in a blue abyss that emptied into a dark cave. It is hard to explain the feeling of swimming in complete darkness (with a flashlight) inside a cave, rich with minerals.
I will post pics soon, as we are in the middle of carnival things are a bit crazy.
Carnival in Olinda has been amazing. It is a small village in the north, tucked to the side of a large city. It is green and historic, with cobblestone streets and old churches. It is the very first place the portugese `discovered´ in Brazil. We arrived 2 days before carnival and found a great apartment overlooking the city and a lush garden (with a pool and hammocks) We are lucky to have a place to hide when we get tired of the sweaty crowds and noise.
Carnival is a crazy, insane mess of everything you can imagine. Costumes, music, singing, parades, dancing......and it never stops! One of the best nights was full of drums, new friends and dancing in the rain.
Large beers for 50 cents and tropical drinks for 1 dollar always lead to a good time! Needless to say, Greg passed a wonderful birthday here in Olinda.
Life is good, we are happy, tan and well fed. We leave tomorrow for Fernando de Norohna, a smal island off the coast of Recife that contains 5 of the best beaches in Brazil (there are 8 best beaches total). We are looking forward to the quiet, lonely beaches.
Tuesday, February 17, 2009
de Salvador a Lencois
To translate, try translate.google.com.
On a passe 5 jours a Salvador. On s'est fait quelques fetes d'avant carnaval. Ca promet d'etre enorme! Ou va-t'on le passer ce carnaval? On a exclu Rio parce qu'il parait qu'on est assis a regarder la fete. Salvador, c'est extravagant mais cher. Recife/Olinda pourrait etre un juste milieu. Pour le moment, on decide d'aller a Lencois. Pourquoi? On avait jamais entendu parle de ce village avant. Lencois est un village a cote du parc "Chapada Diamentina".
Et la, je vous laisse faire une petite recherche d'images sur Google. C'est allucinant!
La vie est tres relaxante a Lencois. Ici, ils ne s'inquietent pas de la crise financiere, s'il fait chaud, ils vont se rafraichir a la riviere. On a appris a faire des Dreamcatchers avec un petit mec qui habite une petite baraque paumee dans la foret. Et la, pour la premiere fois de ma vie, j'ai bu de la cachaca marinee avec un cobra, il parait que c'est bon pour la vitalite, j'ai dit Banco! Et je dois dire que je sens la force du cobra en moi... apres avoir dormi 10 heures d'affilee, bien entendu.
On decide de passer le carnaval a Recife/Olinda. Beaucoup de locaux nous disent que la musique y est meilleure qu'a Salvador. Bon, on a pas vraiment d'endroit ou dormir la bas, c'est vrai. Alejandra commence a se faire au style de vie que j'ai adopte il y a bien longtemps; Ne rien organiser vaut mieux que 2 tient tu l'auras, et la caravane passera de toute facon.
On a passe 5 jours a Salvador. On s'est fait quelques fetes d'avant carnaval. Ca promet d'etre enorme! Ou va-t'on le passer ce carnaval? On a exclu Rio parce qu'il parait qu'on est assis a regarder la fete. Salvador, c'est extravagant mais cher. Recife/Olinda pourrait etre un juste milieu. Pour le moment, on decide d'aller a Lencois. Pourquoi? On avait jamais entendu parle de ce village avant. Lencois est un village a cote du parc "Chapada Diamentina".
Et la, je vous laisse faire une petite recherche d'images sur Google. C'est allucinant!La vie est tres relaxante a Lencois. Ici, ils ne s'inquietent pas de la crise financiere, s'il fait chaud, ils vont se rafraichir a la riviere. On a appris a faire des Dreamcatchers avec un petit mec qui habite une petite baraque paumee dans la foret. Et la, pour la premiere fois de ma vie, j'ai bu de la cachaca marinee avec un cobra, il parait que c'est bon pour la vitalite, j'ai dit Banco! Et je dois dire que je sens la force du cobra en moi... apres avoir dormi 10 heures d'affilee, bien entendu.
On decide de passer le carnaval a Recife/Olinda. Beaucoup de locaux nous disent que la musique y est meilleure qu'a Salvador. Bon, on a pas vraiment d'endroit ou dormir la bas, c'est vrai. Alejandra commence a se faire au style de vie que j'ai adopte il y a bien longtemps; Ne rien organiser vaut mieux que 2 tient tu l'auras, et la caravane passera de toute facon.
Saturday, February 14, 2009
Salvador de Bahia
Arrival to Rio was uneventful, as we never left the airport. We decided to get on a plane right away to the north, and purchased a ticket to Salvador de Bahia. The idea was to get to Salvador before the craziness of carnival started....
more to come.....we uploaded pics, check it out. on our way to a national park....
more to come.....we uploaded pics, check it out. on our way to a national park....
Adios Argentina, Adios Chile
After 4 great days in Mendoza, Argentina we crossed the cordillera de los andes into Santiago, Chile. Because of the overnight bus ride (where we were violenty awoken to cross the border, placed in a room and cross examined about whether we had fruits, meat or leather in our bags by the Chilean police...) we were tired and needed to gt some rest before our flight to Brazil the next day.
After sleeping on the floor of the bus terminal from 6am to 8am, we took off on foot to look for a place to stay. Because of a herbalife conference all the hospedajes and hotels were full and eventually we got in a cab to drive around looking. The mistake was to ask the cab driver where he thought we should stay (for cheap of course) and we ended up at a hooker hotel, complete with curtains to cover your car with and mirrors on the ceiling. We decided not to stay there. Eventually we found a great place in the center and had a blissful rest.
At 5:30 the next morning we were in a cab with smiles on our faces, next stop Brazil.
After sleeping on the floor of the bus terminal from 6am to 8am, we took off on foot to look for a place to stay. Because of a herbalife conference all the hospedajes and hotels were full and eventually we got in a cab to drive around looking. The mistake was to ask the cab driver where he thought we should stay (for cheap of course) and we ended up at a hooker hotel, complete with curtains to cover your car with and mirrors on the ceiling. We decided not to stay there. Eventually we found a great place in the center and had a blissful rest.
At 5:30 the next morning we were in a cab with smiles on our faces, next stop Brazil.
Wednesday, February 4, 2009
Mendoza, Argentina
Once again, visiting places I have already been...but still wonderful to be here with Greg.
We arrived to Mendoza this morning at 6am, torn back with fatigue from the very uncomfortable bus ride here.
Taking in some quick internet use and then going to have some parilla (carne! meat!).
Horsebackriding in the Pampas tomorrow=) Then maybe some bikes and wine the day after.....we will have a drink for all our loved ones!
We arrived to Mendoza this morning at 6am, torn back with fatigue from the very uncomfortable bus ride here.
Taking in some quick internet use and then going to have some parilla (carne! meat!).
Horsebackriding in the Pampas tomorrow=) Then maybe some bikes and wine the day after.....we will have a drink for all our loved ones!
Valparaiso, Chile
It had been 6 years since I left Viña del Mar/Valparaiso and I never thought I would make it back there. It is a weird thing to go back to a place you thought you said your last goodbye to.
Valparaiso is the oldest port in South America and Viña is the city next door that hosts thousands of Santiaguitos on their beaches every summer. Viña del Mar is where I lived and studied in 2003.
Greg and I loved wandering around ¨Valpo´s¨ alleys ways and pasajes. We arrived on a Monday, so all the museums were closed, but we kept busy walking around and checking out the cool murals and grafitti. Greg´s highlight of the day was when a cop came up to us making sure we were going in the right direction, because if we turned right we were headed into trouble. That night we feasted on ¨completos¨ (hot dogs) and wandered home early with a bag of grapes to read our novels.
Day 2 we awoke in our amazing hospedaje overlooking the city and bay, ate a small breakfast and visited La Sebastiana, one of Pable Neruda´s various homes. The house was built specifically for him, with a nautical feel (he liked the feeling of being on a boat, but did not necesarily appreciate the feeling of being on water). The house in built on 4 stories, each story quite small but filled with the eclectic taste of the famous poet. The house is quiet poetic in itself.
After our tour, I was excited to walk around Viña del Mar again, checking out my old apartment, trying to find favorite places to eat and our coffee place we used to hang out at. We chilled on the beach (our tans are getting pretty good!) and then wandered around. Greg patiently listened as I went on about remembering this and that. In the end, it was nice to visit Viña once again.
We roamed back to grab our backpacks, have some dinner and catch our 10pm bus to Mendoza, Argentina. We had decided it was time to get back to Argentina (as Greg´s Argentine spanish was starting to fade), plus we really wanted to eat some more meat and show off our tango skills.
Valparaiso is the oldest port in South America and Viña is the city next door that hosts thousands of Santiaguitos on their beaches every summer. Viña del Mar is where I lived and studied in 2003.
Greg and I loved wandering around ¨Valpo´s¨ alleys ways and pasajes. We arrived on a Monday, so all the museums were closed, but we kept busy walking around and checking out the cool murals and grafitti. Greg´s highlight of the day was when a cop came up to us making sure we were going in the right direction, because if we turned right we were headed into trouble. That night we feasted on ¨completos¨ (hot dogs) and wandered home early with a bag of grapes to read our novels.
Day 2 we awoke in our amazing hospedaje overlooking the city and bay, ate a small breakfast and visited La Sebastiana, one of Pable Neruda´s various homes. The house was built specifically for him, with a nautical feel (he liked the feeling of being on a boat, but did not necesarily appreciate the feeling of being on water). The house in built on 4 stories, each story quite small but filled with the eclectic taste of the famous poet. The house is quiet poetic in itself.
After our tour, I was excited to walk around Viña del Mar again, checking out my old apartment, trying to find favorite places to eat and our coffee place we used to hang out at. We chilled on the beach (our tans are getting pretty good!) and then wandered around. Greg patiently listened as I went on about remembering this and that. In the end, it was nice to visit Viña once again.
We roamed back to grab our backpacks, have some dinner and catch our 10pm bus to Mendoza, Argentina. We had decided it was time to get back to Argentina (as Greg´s Argentine spanish was starting to fade), plus we really wanted to eat some more meat and show off our tango skills.
Tuesday, February 3, 2009
Eating our way through Pucon, Chile
Greg and I were lucky to be able to stop over in Pucon, a small town in the south of Chile. I visited Pucon in 2003 and made a great friend there, David. I was so exited to see him again and spend time in my favorite town in Chile.
Pucon is lakeside and close to one of the most acvtive volcanoes in South America (the one I climbed in 2003). The town is a major destination, for both rich Chilenos and international tourists. During our visit, we saw mainly Chileans, enjoying the amazing summer weather.
David invited us for lunch one day and prepared a typical chilean dish of meat and shellfish steamed to perfection. We started the lunch sipping on his delicious Pisco Sours (a typical drink in Chile, made from Pisco and limes) and did not leave until after 8pm that night. We were invited the next day, as David´s dad wanted to show off and cook his famous dish of congrel soup. That day more pisco sours, more delicious food and once again another invite for lunch the next day! David´s mother wanted to show off this time with her famous dish, pastel de choclo (a super chilean favorite, a sort of corn sheperds pie).
In 3 days we ate like royalty and had a great time hanging out at Casa Buchoff, our favorite people in all of Chile!
Greg and I had sushi in Pucon at the retauraunt David works out after his day job as a civil constructer. =) It was super good and met our craving....
After 4 days in Pucon, we pulled ourselves back together and hit the road. Next stop, Valparaiso.
David invited us for lunch one day and prepared a typical chilean dish of meat and shellfish steamed to perfection. We started the lunch sipping on his delicious Pisco Sours (a typical drink in Chile, made from Pisco and limes) and did not leave until after 8pm that night. We were invited the next day, as David´s dad wanted to show off and cook his famous dish of congrel soup. That day more pisco sours, more delicious food and once again another invite for lunch the next day! David´s mother wanted to show off this time with her famous dish, pastel de choclo (a super chilean favorite, a sort of corn sheperds pie).
In 3 days we ate like royalty and had a great time hanging out at Casa Buchoff, our favorite people in all of Chile!
Greg and I had sushi in Pucon at the retauraunt David works out after his day job as a civil constructer. =) It was super good and met our craving....
After 4 days in Pucon, we pulled ourselves back together and hit the road. Next stop, Valparaiso.
Monday, February 2, 2009
Saturday, January 31, 2009
La Patagonie avec Florent Pagny
La Patagonie, c'est magnifique, tout simplement.
On a fait un tour organisé avec Camino Abierto. Notre groupe etait bien sympa, avec des Suisses, Italiens, Anglais, Americains et Francais. Les guides etaient Argentin et Chileen.
On en a eu plein la vue dès le premier jour. Le temps etait superbe, on a eu beaucoup de chance.
En suivant les photos, vous allez voir le Fitz Roy, le Glacier Perito Moreno, Torres del Paine, la Pampa, la Terre de Feu ou on a fini a Ushuaia.
On a mange un agneau cuit au feu de bois dans une Estancia. Le meilleur agneau!!!
Ah, et puis, dans l'estancia, j'ai failli etre embauché. Il y a une petite video de moi ou je trie les moutons. Il s'agissait de mettre les moutons a tondre dans un enclos et les autres sans laine, dans un autre enclos. Ca a l'air facile comme ca, mais je me suis fait rapidement deborder...
Le soir, j'ai amusé la gallerie avec le jeu des loups-garous. Un des Italiens parlait comme Roberto Benigni, on a rrrit....
Sinon, j'ai bien progressé en Espagnol Argentin. La regle d'or est que les "lleu" deviennent des "cheu", du coup on dit "¿Como te chamas?" ou "me gusta el pocho" ou encore "Cho no se donde estan mis chaves!" ;)
Ah! et puis, on a gouté un nouveau truc, le Mate. C'est une herbe sechée dans une sorte de tasse avec de l'eau chaude que l'on boit par une paille metallique. Et on le passe d'une personne a l'autre comme un joint, mais c'est legal!
Bon voila, on s'est bien regale en Patagonie. On realise la chance que l'on a.
On a fait un tour organisé avec Camino Abierto. Notre groupe etait bien sympa, avec des Suisses, Italiens, Anglais, Americains et Francais. Les guides etaient Argentin et Chileen.
On en a eu plein la vue dès le premier jour. Le temps etait superbe, on a eu beaucoup de chance.
En suivant les photos, vous allez voir le Fitz Roy, le Glacier Perito Moreno, Torres del Paine, la Pampa, la Terre de Feu ou on a fini a Ushuaia.
On a mange un agneau cuit au feu de bois dans une Estancia. Le meilleur agneau!!!
Ah, et puis, dans l'estancia, j'ai failli etre embauché. Il y a une petite video de moi ou je trie les moutons. Il s'agissait de mettre les moutons a tondre dans un enclos et les autres sans laine, dans un autre enclos. Ca a l'air facile comme ca, mais je me suis fait rapidement deborder...
Le soir, j'ai amusé la gallerie avec le jeu des loups-garous. Un des Italiens parlait comme Roberto Benigni, on a rrrit....
Sinon, j'ai bien progressé en Espagnol Argentin. La regle d'or est que les "lleu" deviennent des "cheu", du coup on dit "¿Como te chamas?" ou "me gusta el pocho" ou encore "Cho no se donde estan mis chaves!" ;)
Ah! et puis, on a gouté un nouveau truc, le Mate. C'est une herbe sechée dans une sorte de tasse avec de l'eau chaude que l'on boit par une paille metallique. Et on le passe d'une personne a l'autre comme un joint, mais c'est legal!
Bon voila, on s'est bien regale en Patagonie. On realise la chance que l'on a.
Tuesday, January 27, 2009
Chile...de nuevo
January 26, 2009
We arrived in Punta Arenas, a small town in Chile (a mandatory stop over) for one night only. It happened to be Sunday and the town could quiet litrally have been a ghost town. We were starting to wonder if we could find dinner. After a mate (Argetine tea) in the hotel, we wandered out again and found a cute seafood restauraunt where we shared fresh fish plates for under $20.
January 27, 2009
Early morning flight, crankiness and then a 3 hour bus ride. But we did not go too hungry, thanks to the nice lady at the hotel who fixed us a bag lunch to go.
We arrived to the small town of Valdivia in the south of Chile around 2pm. We found a cheap place to stay and then grabbed food at the supermarket to have a picnic by the river. Valdivia is located in the beautiful lakes district of southern Chile, an area we plan to explore for the next 5 days.
Here is an image of the town....
http://photos.igougo.com/images/p307009-Valdivia-Another_Harbor_Shot.jpg
Here is a map of the area we are in:
http://www.geocities.com/mapachile/sur.gif
The town is small, perfect for relaxing in green parks, slow boat rides and great (cheap) dinners. We plan to hang out until tomorrow and then head north 3 hours to Pucon, to visit a friend I met there during my travels in 2003.
_____________________
Things already lost in the trip:
Alejandra's towel
Greg's treasure box
Greg's favorite pants are starting to rip on the behind. He has succeed in keeping them alive using duct tape. Let's hope it holds.
We arrived in Punta Arenas, a small town in Chile (a mandatory stop over) for one night only. It happened to be Sunday and the town could quiet litrally have been a ghost town. We were starting to wonder if we could find dinner. After a mate (Argetine tea) in the hotel, we wandered out again and found a cute seafood restauraunt where we shared fresh fish plates for under $20.
January 27, 2009
Early morning flight, crankiness and then a 3 hour bus ride. But we did not go too hungry, thanks to the nice lady at the hotel who fixed us a bag lunch to go.
We arrived to the small town of Valdivia in the south of Chile around 2pm. We found a cheap place to stay and then grabbed food at the supermarket to have a picnic by the river. Valdivia is located in the beautiful lakes district of southern Chile, an area we plan to explore for the next 5 days.
Here is an image of the town....
http://photos.igougo.com/images/p307009-Valdivia-Another_Harbor_Shot.jpg
Here is a map of the area we are in:
http://www.geocities.com/mapachile/sur.gif
The town is small, perfect for relaxing in green parks, slow boat rides and great (cheap) dinners. We plan to hang out until tomorrow and then head north 3 hours to Pucon, to visit a friend I met there during my travels in 2003.
_____________________
Things already lost in the trip:
Alejandra's towel
Greg's treasure box
Greg's favorite pants are starting to rip on the behind. He has succeed in keeping them alive using duct tape. Let's hope it holds.
Penguins! Pinguinos!
January 25, 2009
Though the trip ended last night, Greg and I still wanted (and had the time) to see penguins. The tour took us down la Ruta J, from where we got on a boat at the Haverton Estancia to an island 15 minutes off the shore.
There was a colony, protected by a group of scientists, of Magallenes and Gentoo Penguins. The Magallanes penguins are the smaller ones, while the Gentoo are larger and have disctint orange colloring on thier beaks and feet.
We happened to be visiting just after the eggs hatched and we were able to see both the babies and the nests.
Did you know?
- Penguins, for the mostpart, are monagomous and mate with the same partner each year- unless something tragic happens the year before, such as a egg being eaten by a predator, a chick dying after birth, famine, ect. In this case the female will choose a different nest. Tunrs out the males build the nests and the females come each year to find them by smell.
- 2 eggs are produced by 1 female. One chick is usually testes for stregnth (survival of the fitess) and if there is shortage of food, the stronger chick is always cared for first.
- Penguins only spend time on land when mating and raising babies. The babies do not develop feathers capable of keeping the cold antartic water out until 3 months later.
- CHicks born the year before come back to the colony not to mate, only to loose and grow new feathers.
- Penguins are the fastest in water, and can dive up to 100 meters
- We were able to get so close to them because they can´t see well on land!
Though the trip ended last night, Greg and I still wanted (and had the time) to see penguins. The tour took us down la Ruta J, from where we got on a boat at the Haverton Estancia to an island 15 minutes off the shore.
There was a colony, protected by a group of scientists, of Magallenes and Gentoo Penguins. The Magallanes penguins are the smaller ones, while the Gentoo are larger and have disctint orange colloring on thier beaks and feet.
We happened to be visiting just after the eggs hatched and we were able to see both the babies and the nests.
Did you know?
- Penguins, for the mostpart, are monagomous and mate with the same partner each year- unless something tragic happens the year before, such as a egg being eaten by a predator, a chick dying after birth, famine, ect. In this case the female will choose a different nest. Tunrs out the males build the nests and the females come each year to find them by smell.
- 2 eggs are produced by 1 female. One chick is usually testes for stregnth (survival of the fitess) and if there is shortage of food, the stronger chick is always cared for first.
- Penguins only spend time on land when mating and raising babies. The babies do not develop feathers capable of keeping the cold antartic water out until 3 months later.
- CHicks born the year before come back to the colony not to mate, only to loose and grow new feathers.
- Penguins are the fastest in water, and can dive up to 100 meters
- We were able to get so close to them because they can´t see well on land!
End of the world, end of the adventure
January 24, 2009
Greg and I ended our 15 day trek through Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego in Ushuaia, Argentina. Ushuaia is the last city on the American continent and the port where all ships leave for Antartica. One must posses at least $5K (US dollar) to make the trip down to Antartica, Greg and I decided to save that one until we are old and rich.
After 15 days of being herded around, fed and organized we were a little nervous to be set free and be on our own for planning. But the adventure awaits and it will be nice to have some quiet time.
We spend 2 more days in Ushuaia, with plans to see penguins, eat lots of Argentine meat and have at least one afternoon nap.
Greg and I ended our 15 day trek through Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego in Ushuaia, Argentina. Ushuaia is the last city on the American continent and the port where all ships leave for Antartica. One must posses at least $5K (US dollar) to make the trip down to Antartica, Greg and I decided to save that one until we are old and rich.
After 15 days of being herded around, fed and organized we were a little nervous to be set free and be on our own for planning. But the adventure awaits and it will be nice to have some quiet time.
We spend 2 more days in Ushuaia, with plans to see penguins, eat lots of Argentine meat and have at least one afternoon nap.
Extreme Patagonia Adventure
Janiary 9 to January 24, 2009
Day 1&2 - Calafate, Argentine
Bus ride to Parque National de los Glaciers and hike to camp site at the base if Fitz Roy. Excellent views! We were also blessed with exceptional weather and had clear skies and warm breezes. Not the cold uninviting Patagonia weather we had expected.
Day 3 - Hike to Lago de los Tres and Fitz Roy viewpoint
Excellent hike, steep climb but rewarding finish. Check out the pics, the viewpoint is at the base of the famous mountain climbing peaks that tower above 2 brilliant blue glacier water lagoons. We were able to spend at least 1 hour at the view point, taking in sun and a packed lunch.
Day 4 - 5 am wake up call
Greg and I dragged ourselves out of our tent with Ale and Rocco to check out the full moon and sunrise. It was magnificent! I am so thankful for the time to be able to watch the sunrise, bathe in the light of the moon and share it all with Greg.
After breakfast we took off on a relaxing hike, across marshes and thick forests, to our next campsite. After game of wherewolf and some mate we wandering on a few more walks and then came back for dinner....lentils.
Day 5 - Glacier Hike and hike back to town of Chalten
9 am start, I am still half asleep when I find myself hooked to a line and before I can comprehend, I am flying acorss a river.
It took about an hour to cmilb up and over what looked like should have taken 15 minutes to get to. As we got closer to the Great Glacier, it began to take true form, in both color and size. At the edge, we stapped 10 metal spikes to each foot and began walking.
I had assumed we would be walking on a flat piece of blue ise, but the glacier is in fat full of peaks and crevises, making it obvious why we needed spikes on our feet.
Walking on brilliant blue glass, stepping over crack, sinkholes and ridges.....not an everyday hike. We arrived to a large hole in the ice that sloped down to a river runniung through and under the glacier. It was here the guides stopped to set up a rappel down. The guides ecured the hook and we lowered ourselves down 1 by 1 into the crevice where we ate lunch and practiced our ice climbing.
The walk back was long and tiring as we walked from sun to rain to snow to wind. Back up and over the mountainside, over the rushing river and into camp. No rest here, as we stll had a 3 hour walk ahead of us back into town where we were due for a shower and dinner.
It was the best night of sleep I had had in the trip thusfar (despite the cold shower).
Day 6 - Back to El Calafate
Day 7 - Perito Moreno Glacier
Day 8 - Torres del Paine, hike to Mirador de los Condores
Day 9 - Hike to Mirador de las Torres
Day 10 - Lago Pehoe boat ride to French Valley, Torres del Paine, Chile
Hike to Italian Camp (where I fell in a river) Rain, cold and wind....la miseria!
Day 11 - Hike to Grey Glacier and bus to Puerto Natales
Day 12 - Puerto Natales to Estancia de Las Mujeres. Beautiful sheep ranch where we were treated to the best lamb roast EVER.
Day 13 - Estancia de las Hijas. Sheep Shearing Show! Then bus down to Tierra del Fuego, where we crossed the Straights of Magellenes. We arrived to a Mountain Refuge in time for lunch and an afternoon hike. Later that night we went hunting for beavers!
Day 14 - Bus to Ushuaia. Hike in National Park and afternoon boat ride in the famous Beagle Channel.
Day 15 - Penguins!
Day 1&2 - Calafate, Argentine
Bus ride to Parque National de los Glaciers and hike to camp site at the base if Fitz Roy. Excellent views! We were also blessed with exceptional weather and had clear skies and warm breezes. Not the cold uninviting Patagonia weather we had expected.
Day 3 - Hike to Lago de los Tres and Fitz Roy viewpoint
Excellent hike, steep climb but rewarding finish. Check out the pics, the viewpoint is at the base of the famous mountain climbing peaks that tower above 2 brilliant blue glacier water lagoons. We were able to spend at least 1 hour at the view point, taking in sun and a packed lunch.
Day 4 - 5 am wake up call
Greg and I dragged ourselves out of our tent with Ale and Rocco to check out the full moon and sunrise. It was magnificent! I am so thankful for the time to be able to watch the sunrise, bathe in the light of the moon and share it all with Greg.
After breakfast we took off on a relaxing hike, across marshes and thick forests, to our next campsite. After game of wherewolf and some mate we wandering on a few more walks and then came back for dinner....lentils.
Day 5 - Glacier Hike and hike back to town of Chalten
9 am start, I am still half asleep when I find myself hooked to a line and before I can comprehend, I am flying acorss a river.
It took about an hour to cmilb up and over what looked like should have taken 15 minutes to get to. As we got closer to the Great Glacier, it began to take true form, in both color and size. At the edge, we stapped 10 metal spikes to each foot and began walking.
I had assumed we would be walking on a flat piece of blue ise, but the glacier is in fat full of peaks and crevises, making it obvious why we needed spikes on our feet.
Walking on brilliant blue glass, stepping over crack, sinkholes and ridges.....not an everyday hike. We arrived to a large hole in the ice that sloped down to a river runniung through and under the glacier. It was here the guides stopped to set up a rappel down. The guides ecured the hook and we lowered ourselves down 1 by 1 into the crevice where we ate lunch and practiced our ice climbing.
The walk back was long and tiring as we walked from sun to rain to snow to wind. Back up and over the mountainside, over the rushing river and into camp. No rest here, as we stll had a 3 hour walk ahead of us back into town where we were due for a shower and dinner.
It was the best night of sleep I had had in the trip thusfar (despite the cold shower).
Day 6 - Back to El Calafate
Day 7 - Perito Moreno Glacier
Day 8 - Torres del Paine, hike to Mirador de los Condores
Day 9 - Hike to Mirador de las Torres
Day 10 - Lago Pehoe boat ride to French Valley, Torres del Paine, Chile
Hike to Italian Camp (where I fell in a river) Rain, cold and wind....la miseria!
Day 11 - Hike to Grey Glacier and bus to Puerto Natales
Day 12 - Puerto Natales to Estancia de Las Mujeres. Beautiful sheep ranch where we were treated to the best lamb roast EVER.
Day 13 - Estancia de las Hijas. Sheep Shearing Show! Then bus down to Tierra del Fuego, where we crossed the Straights of Magellenes. We arrived to a Mountain Refuge in time for lunch and an afternoon hike. Later that night we went hunting for beavers!
Day 14 - Bus to Ushuaia. Hike in National Park and afternoon boat ride in the famous Beagle Channel.
Day 15 - Penguins!
Saturday, January 10, 2009
Tango in Buenos Aires
After asking around, we found a sort of underground tango club in Buenos Aires, called La Viruta. We arrived just in time to see a quick show of amazing dancers. After the show they broke up the crowd and held lessons, beginners, int and advanced. Greg and I were getting ready to dance without a class, we were intently watching thinking we could figure it out somehow. Thank god for the class.
Although all the amazing argentine dancers were getting pissed off as we stepped, pushed and tripped over them, we thought we were exceptional tango dancers (exactamente, we think very highly of each other) In the end we left smiling and sweating, very pleased to have experienced and learned tango, al estilo argentino.
We loved Buenos Aires, even though I had been there a few times before, it was wonderful to experience it with my love. The city has changed so much, when I was last there during the financial crisis there was a much diferent feel. Now it seems the country is out spending money and we didn´t see one manifestation.....
Greg and I are in El Calafate, ready to head off on our trek tomorrow am. We are well rested (and fed) and happy to be getting out of the city and the heat. Last night we roomed with an actor from France and a finance guy from London, tonight we hope to have new roomates that do not snore.
all my love,
Alejandra
Although all the amazing argentine dancers were getting pissed off as we stepped, pushed and tripped over them, we thought we were exceptional tango dancers (exactamente, we think very highly of each other) In the end we left smiling and sweating, very pleased to have experienced and learned tango, al estilo argentino.
We loved Buenos Aires, even though I had been there a few times before, it was wonderful to experience it with my love. The city has changed so much, when I was last there during the financial crisis there was a much diferent feel. Now it seems the country is out spending money and we didn´t see one manifestation.....
Greg and I are in El Calafate, ready to head off on our trek tomorrow am. We are well rested (and fed) and happy to be getting out of the city and the heat. Last night we roomed with an actor from France and a finance guy from London, tonight we hope to have new roomates that do not snore.
all my love,
Alejandra
Wednesday, January 7, 2009
Buenos Aires
We made the 24 hour trip from SF to Argentina in on piece. Taca managed to get our backpacks to BA, however Greg was dissapointed to find his treasure box missing.... containing a knife and various personal effects. The plane was good though, a Airbus A320, take that, Boeing!
On arrival, our host, Sebastian was holding a sign for Alejandra...a first for Greg and I. La classe!
We have then spent the last few days walking and visiting the Casa Rosa, La Boca, San Telmo, Palermo and La Recoleta. Greg and I managed to have a laugh in the middle of dead people in the cementario de Recoleta.
We also ate like gourmands at a well known parillada called La Cabrera. We could not get in unless we shared a table, so we walked in with 3 European Lufthansa arline hosts. We drank 2 bottles of wine and Greg laughed at Alejandra the entire walk home.
The next night we had again the best dinner ever.....which included more meat and morcilla (blood sausage). ¡Delicioso!
Tomorrow we are off to El Tigre to check out the river and see if we can have a swim. It is over 40ºc/100ºf.
It has been wonderful so far, Greg and I are walking around with big smiles on our faces and thankful for this opportunity.
We leave to El Calafate Friday morning and will be away for 2 weeks on a trek. More to come after that!
Our pictures so far are at: http://picasaweb.google.com/navarro.ala/BuenosAires108?feat=directlink
On arrival, our host, Sebastian was holding a sign for Alejandra...a first for Greg and I. La classe!
We have then spent the last few days walking and visiting the Casa Rosa, La Boca, San Telmo, Palermo and La Recoleta. Greg and I managed to have a laugh in the middle of dead people in the cementario de Recoleta.
We also ate like gourmands at a well known parillada called La Cabrera. We could not get in unless we shared a table, so we walked in with 3 European Lufthansa arline hosts. We drank 2 bottles of wine and Greg laughed at Alejandra the entire walk home.
The next night we had again the best dinner ever.....which included more meat and morcilla (blood sausage). ¡Delicioso!
Tomorrow we are off to El Tigre to check out the river and see if we can have a swim. It is over 40ºc/100ºf.
It has been wonderful so far, Greg and I are walking around with big smiles on our faces and thankful for this opportunity.
We leave to El Calafate Friday morning and will be away for 2 weeks on a trek. More to come after that!
Our pictures so far are at: http://picasaweb.google.com/navarro.ala/BuenosAires108?feat=directlink
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)